The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
On the score of originality nothing can be said against the environs
of Kobi; when we looked round we could not help thinking of the phrase
"riddlings of creation," which we have heard applied to the Scottish
Highlands; it does, indeed, look as if some of the materials left
over after the creation of our earth, had been left here in disordered
heaps, to give us some idea of chaos. The road now follows the course
of the Terek, and the scenery is indescribably grand; straight before
us lies snowy Kazbek in all its rugged wildness, here and there are
ruined towers, and about the middle of the stage a turn in the road
brings us to an aul, or village, of mediæval appearance, by the side
of which is a little copse, a rarity in this bleak district. The
basaltic rocks present many fantastic shapes and colours to the
eye; in several places I saw what looked like huge bundles of rods,
reminding me of the Giant's Causeway. Before reaching the station
we were met by children who offered for sale all sorts of crystals,
pieces of quartz and other pretty geological specimens.
Kazbek station is a very comfortable inn, where one can dine well,
and is to be recommended as a place for a prolonged stay. The mountain,
generally called Kazbek, rises from the valley in one almost unbroken
mass, reaching a height of 16,550 feet above sea-level; the Georgians
call it Mkhinvari (ice mountain), and the Ossets, Christ's Peak; Kazbek
is really the name of the family who own this part of the country,
and is wrongly applied to the mountain. This peak, like Ararat, enjoys
the reputation of being inaccessible, and our countrymen, Freshfield,
Moore, and Tucker, who climbed to the top, without much difficulty,
in June, 1868, were not believed when they told the story of their
ascent. On the mountain the sportsman can occasionally get a shot at
a tur (aurochs, Ægoceros Pallasii); but if he is unwilling to expose
himself to the necessary danger and fatigue, he can for a few roubles
buy a pair of horns at the station.
Those who invade the realm of the mountain spirit should not fail to
visit Devdorak glacier, the easiest way of making the ascent; there
they will see a place where the native hunters make sacrifices of tur
horns to propitiate the spirit, who might otherwise throw blocks of
ice down on their heads.
There is a popular legend to the effect that on the summit of Mkhinvari
is the tent of the Patriarch Abraham, within which, in a cradle held up
by an unseen hand, lies the child Jesus asleep; outside there grows
some wheat of wonderful size, beside the tree of life; round the
cradle are heaps of treasures. Under the reign of King Irakli II.,
a priest and his son started for the summit in order to see these
wonders; the boy returned alone, bearing samples of the material of
the tent, some big grains of wheat, &c., the soles of his boots were
covered with silver coins which had stuck to them--unfortunately it
was found that the coins were quite modern!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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