The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
As is well known, Mkhinvari is generally identified with the story
of Prometheus, although the mountain does not correspond with the
description given by Æschylus. Early travellers even went so far as
to assert that they had seen the very chains with which the hero was
bound, and there is a local legend to the effect that a giant still
lies there in fetters. When I approached the mountain from Kobi I could
not help being reminded of Prometheus. I saw a gigantic black space
of irregular form with snow all round it; an imaginative mind found
in this irregular tract a considerable resemblance to the human shape.
No traveller should leave Kazbek without making a pilgrimage to the
monastery of St. Stephen, which stands on the top of an isolated
hill about 2000 feet above the station. At sunset the view is
wonderfully beautiful. Tradition says that the monastery was built
by three kings, but does not give their names; in any case the
building is of considerable antiquity. Service is held in the church
three times a year. The interior has been spoiled by that fiend the
"restorer." From the church you look over a wide, uninhabited valley
to the giant mountain, and on turning round you see the river Terek,
on the banks of which are the station and village; on either hand
stretch dark cavernous-looking valleys. Beyond the Terek is the home
of the Ingushes, a people who frequently carry off the cattle of their
more settled neighbours, and give the small garrison of Kazbek some
amusement in hunting them down.
After leaving Kazbek, we see on our right the manor-house of the
princely family from which the place takes its name, a family which
has produced, and doubtless will yet produce, sons which will be an
honour to Georgia; the house is a fine two-storey edifice, and there
is a pretty chapel attached to it. In a few minutes we reach the Mad
Ravine, so called from a torrent of terrible impetuosity, which has
formed one of the most serious obstacles to the construction of the
road. We now enter Dariel, the pass from which the road takes its name,
one of the grandest spots on earth.
According to philologists, Dariel is derived from an old Persian
word meaning gate (cf. Der-bend, Thuer, door, Slav Dver, &c.), and in
fact it was here that the ancient geographers placed the site of the
famous Caucasian Gates; but surely there is something to be said in
favour of the local tradition which connects the place with Darius
I. of Persia. As for the gates, it is, of course, impossible to say
definitely whether they ever existed or not, at all events there
are several points where it would not have been very difficult to
construct them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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