The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
At the entrance of the ravine, on the left bank of the Terek,
stands a high rock, on which may be seen the ruins of a castle,
said to have been founded in 150 B.C., but doubtless having a still
longer history. This castle is always associated with the name of
a certain wicked Queen Tamara, a mythical creation of the popular
fancy, and Lermontov has written a very pretty poem based on the
legend. It is said that this Tamara (not to be confounded with the
good Tamara), was very beautiful, and that she used to invite all the
handsome young men who passed that way to come up and live with her,
promising them all the delights that heart could wish for; after one
night of bliss the unfortunate gentleman was deprived of his head, and
was then thrown down into the Terek, which bore away his body. If the
legend is not wrong in saying that the river carried away the corpses,
the frolicsome monarch must have been comparatively constant during
the summer months, or else the pile of wantons would soon have become
large enough to frighten all the passion out of intending visitors, for
in the month of June, Terek would not float a respectably-sized cat.
By the road-side is Dariel Fort, a romantic-looking place with
old-fashioned battlemented towers; a few Kazaks are quartered here,
and must find the time hang very heavily on their hands. When you
reach this fort it looks as if it were impossible to go beyond it,
a mighty wall stretches right across the path; but the road follows
the course of the river, indeed it is built in the river-bed, and
winds along between awful cliffs whose summits are lost in the clouds,
and whose flanks are seldom or never touched by a ray of sunlight. We
sometimes hear of places where a handful of men could keep back an
army, this is one of them; a touch would send down upon the road some
of the heavy, overhanging masses of rock, and effectually close the
pass. About fifty years ago an avalanche fell here, from the glacier
of Devdorak, and it was two years before the rubbish was all cleared
away. When the new road is blocked by snow or carried away by floods,
the old road, high up near the snow-line, has to be used.
The scenery of this pass has been described by Pushkin, Lermontov, and
many others, but it is one of the few places that do not disappoint the
traveller, however much he may have expected. It must not be forgotten
that the road through this narrow gorge is the only passable one that
crosses the Caucasian range; there are, it is true, one or two other
tracks, but they are not practicable for wheeled carriages.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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