The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
Our new home turned out to be a very delightful place,--large, lofty
rooms, two balconies; at the back, vineyards and gardens stretching far
down the hillside. The view was more beautiful than any I had ever seen
or imagined. The house was built on the edge of a deep, narrow ravine,
the steep sides of which were covered with vines and mulberry-trees
all the way down to the Alazana valley, a smooth, fertile plain
thirty miles broad. On the opposite side of the ravine, to the left,
stood a very extensive fortification with ruined towers, a stronghold
of some importance during the war with Shamil; behind this could be
seen the Armenian church and the outskirts of the town. Straight in
front lay the grand Caucasian mountains, rising like a wait from the
plain, their glittering snow-clad tops dividing the dark forests on
their flanks from the deep blue of the summer sky. In the midst of
the plain flowed the silvery Alazana, in its winding course dividing
the cultivated land on this side from the virgin forest beyond. Along
the nearer edge lay scattered hamlets with their neat little white
churches; farther off might be seen a wood, which we always thought
of as that of the Sleeping Beauty. From the heights of Signakh it does
not look large, but it is six miles in diameter, and the underwood is
so thick that it can only be penetrated by cutting a path with axes;
it is full of all sorts of wild beasts and dangerous reptiles. In
the distance on the left may be seen the mountains on which Telav is
situated; to the extreme right a few huts on the river bank indicate
the position of the Alazana bridge, and beyond this begins the long
sandy steppe which stretches in unbroken barrenness to the Caspian.
Signakh is 100 versts to the eastward of Tiflis, and stands about 1000
feet above the plain of the Alazana. The population is over 10,000, the
majority being Armenian shop-keepers, usurers, &c. The name signifies
"city of refuge," and the place was founded and fortified in the last
century, in order to serve as a retreat for the country people in
times of Lesghian raids. The fortress consists of a very large piece
of ground enclosed by high walls, with towers at regular intervals,
and the whole city used to be within these walls. The post-road to
Bakurtsikhe runs through the stronghold, and about sunset all the
wealth and beauty of Signakh may be seen promenading on the highway,
for this is "the boulevard;" on Sunday afternoon wrestling goes on
merrily to the sound of the pipe and drum. At present the military
importance of Signakh is almost at an end, but if Russia should
ever find herself involved in a great war we might probably hear
something of the doings of the Lesghians in that region. The garrison
is very small.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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