The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
The Club is the centre of all the social life of Signakh, and on
Saturday evenings there are informal dances, to which the stranger
looks forward as a welcome break in the monotony of provincial
life. The Gostinnitsa "Nadezhda" (Hope Inn), which we nicknamed
"Grand Hôtel de Kakhétie," is dirty and uninviting to a degree which
Europeans could hardly imagine possible; but it is the best hostelry
in the town. The Court-house is just opposite the inn, and I remember
spending a very interesting evening there on one occasion, watching
the trial of Georgians, Tatars, Armenians, by a Russian justice of the
peace in a gorgeous uniform. The cases were settled with a rapidity
to which the High Court of Chancery is a stranger.
Altogether, Signakh is a dirty but highly picturesque little town;
its streets are narrow, crooked, and ill-paved, the shops, as is usual
in the East, are small, open rooms, in which saddlers, tailors, and
smiths may be seen plying their respective trades; all round about
the town are beautiful hills covered with oak, walnut, and other
tall forest-trees. The only other place it reminded me of was Amalfi,
and even in this case the resemblance was but slight.
On one of the neighbouring hills, at Bodbé, is the Monastery of
St. Nina. This venerable relic stands in one of the finest pieces
of scenery in all Kakheti, and is surrounded by a thick forest,
which has from the earliest times been protected from destruction
by a popular tradition, declaring that he who breaks off a branch
therein will die within the same year. The monastery was originally
built by King Mirian immediately after the death of the apostle
of Georgia, and her tomb may still be seen in the present church,
which, according to an inscription on one of the walls, was restored
by a certain King Giorgi, after the country had been laid waste by
Tamerlan. In the sacristy are many old manuscripts, amongst which
there are doubtless some of great historical interest, but, as far
as I know, they have not yet been catalogued. On the occasion of my
visit to Bodbé I passed a wine-shop, where three or four Georgians
were making merry; they pressed me to stay and drink with them, but,
offering them my thanks, I begged to be excused on the ground of want
of time. On my return they came out, hat in hand, to the middle of
the road, and presented me with a goblet, which I could not refuse to
drain without giving serious displeasure to my kind entertainers. This
little incident is a very good illustration of the Georgian character:
when the Georgian is merry, everybody else must share his jollity or
he is unhappy. I have seen a squire quite unnecessarily leave a scene
of revelry for a minute or two in order to heap up food in his horse's
manger, so that the faithful beast might share in the universal joy.
A TRIP ACROSS THE ALAZANA.
BAKURTSIKHE--KARTUBAN--LAGODEKH.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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