The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
The hottest part of our day's work was over; instead of burnt,
shadowless plains we should now have the sunless forest to ride
through until we reached our halting-place for the night. But we well
knew that we should not be in clover for the rest of the day, for we
had often been told that this wood was infested by a horse-fly of a
very malignant character, and as we rode along the northward path
we had an opportunity of making the acquaintance of the insect in
question. Within a mile of the bank we were surrounded by swarms of
them, and the horses, becoming more and more restless, at last went
perfectly mad with pain, while the blood dripped plentifully from their
flanks. To think of holding them in by bit and bridle was out of the
question, the only thing to be done was to let them gallop ahead and to
keep a sharp look-out for the many boughs that overhung the scarcely
perceptible track. Although Georgia is not in the tropics, this was a
truly tropical forest with all its luxuriant and beautiful vegetation;
walnut and other fancy woods abound, but they are allowed to fall
and rot unutilized; the undergrowth on either hand is so thick as to
be impenetrable; on all sides are masses of strange, bright flowers,
making the air heavy with perfume, and birds of dazzling plumage sit
chattering on every tree.
About an hour before sunset we reached the river Kabalo, a swift,
shallow mountain stream, which we forded, and then rode up a fine
glade to the encampment of my friends' Tatar herdsmen. About a score
of families live there all the summer in large tents, which are not
altogether devoid of comfort; in the interior may be seen carpeted
divans, gold and silver ornaments are not uncommon, and the copper
household utensils are thoroughly artistic in shape and beautifully
engraved. We dismounted at the chief man's tent, and, lying down on
the greensward, waited impatiently for dinner. The fare was abundant
and good, as was to be expected in a country so rich in game and fish,
and we slaked our thirst with cool kumiss (fermented mare's milk). The
Tatars are fine, bold-looking fellows; there is in their faces a
look of wild freedom that is extremely attractive to one who has
spent the most of his life in cities. I believe that if I had stayed
a week or two in that camp on the Kabalo, I should have been content
to renounce civilized life altogether. A very houri, a gazelle of the
wilderness, a sixteen-year old maiden in red tunic and wide trousers,
with long dark hair in countless tiny braids and pretty little white
bare feet and ankles, cast timid glances in our direction, and lovely,
languorous eyes said as plainly as possible, "Fly to the desert! fly
with me" ... and many other things which the curious reader may find
recorded in the works of the late Mr. Thos. Moore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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