The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
At nightfall we rode away, accompanied by a few Tatars, to visit
the large herds of horses and cattle which feed near here, and
then proceeded to the little cluster of cottages where the Georgian
farm-labourers live, about a couple of miles higher up the river. We
were received by the steward, a Greek from Cilicia, and after chatting
merrily over our tea for a few hours, we spread our burkas on the
ground and slept as well as the clouds of fierce mosquitoes would allow
us to do, under the starlit sky, lulled by the music of the stream.
About an hour before dawn the cold aroused us all, and after a
bath in the icy waters of the Kabalo, and a hasty breakfast, we
visited the farm-buildings. Tobacco is the chief commodity produced,
but its cultivation is at present rather unprofitable; I saw three
hundred bales of the finest leaves of last year's growth lying in
the store unsold; it is quite equal to Turkish, and can be bought at
a ridiculously low price, but it is not yet known in Europe, even in
Russia "Batumskii tabak" has only recently been introduced, although it
is far superior to that which is grown on the Don. Georgian landowners
cannot afford to push the sale of their wares in Europe, but I am sure
that if English firms would send out buyers they would not regret it,
unless they dealt with the wily Armenian middle-man instead of the
Georgian producer. The fear of the Lesghian robber-bands prevents any
great outlay of capital in the development of such a district, and,
indeed, nobody in Georgia has much capital to spare, so the greater
part of the estate I am speaking of, hundreds of square miles in
extent, is a pathless forest.
By eight o'clock we were in the saddle. The path rises through thick
woodlands to the summit of a hill crossed by a narrow, rocky pass
which has an unpleasant reputation as being the haunt of brigands;
only a few weeks before, a party of travellers had been attacked there,
two of their number were wounded, and they were all relieved of their
purses, jewellery, and arms. We were within half a mile of the top when
we perceived a Lesghian prowling about a little in advance of us. We
halted, unslung our fire-arms and loaded, then extending for attack,
as far as the nature of of the country would allow, we went forward
at a quick walking pace. We soon caught sight of three more Lesghians,
but this was evidently the whole force, for they contented themselves
with looking at us from a distance, and seeing that the odds were
in our favour, they galloped away into the depths of the forest,
and left us to pursue our journey unmolested.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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