The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
Early in the afternoon we sat down to dinner, and did full justice to
the fare. My neighbour on the right was the brother of a charming lady
whom I had met in Tiflis, and it so happened that he had that very day
received from her a letter in which I was spoken of, for Englishmen are
rare birds in these lands. This gentleman had wandering proclivities
almost as strong as my own, and he informed me that he thought of
travelling overland by Merv to India, "where the English pay private
soldiers as much as the Russians pay a captain." After dinner we all
slept for an hour, and then, the heat having slightly diminished,
we started for Mikhailovka. A bear hunt was to take place on the
following day, and we were urgently pressed to stay and take part in
it, but we had to be back in Signakh within the next twenty-four hours,
and were therefore obliged to deny ourselves this pleasure.
Before we were clear of Lagodekh somebody had the unfortunate idea of
starting a wild gallop, but the spot was badly chosen, for a sudden
turn in the road brought us to a river with a wide, stony bed. The
leading horse threw his rider into the very middle of the stream,
I was deposited on a heap of big stones on the other side; all the
rest, warned by our mishap, escaped. It took over an hour to catch
the runaway horses, and when we reached Mikhailovka I felt as if
I had passed through a thrashing-mill, every bone was aching. Our
camping-ground was under a large oak-tree, behind a peasant's house,
and we lay there on the ground, a prey to the mosquitoes, until
early morning.
At half-past four we were in the saddle, and after a stirrup-cup
of Russian vodka, galloped down the smooth, well-kept military road
towards the Alazana, occasionally glancing back at the beautiful hill
country behind us. I felt all my many bruises with double force after
the night's rest, and it was as much as I could do to keep my seat, not
to speak of emulating the exploits of my companions, who were amusing
themselves with shots at the hares and feathered game with which the
country abounds. At length, at about eight o'clock, we reached the
Chiauri Bridge, a shaky-looking wooden structure. There is a wretched
little wine-shop, where we dismounted for breakfast. A fine fish of
fifteen pounds' weight, with some of the coarse, indiarubber-like
bread of the country, formed the solid part of the meal; I need not
say what the liquid part of it was; we emptied our sheepskin and then
fell back on mine host's supplies. The river, in summer at least,
is sluggish and dirty, and has an evil smell of decaying vegetable
matter, very suggestive of malarial fever; if our acquaintance with
the Alazana had been confined to this portion of it, we should have
been at a loss to understand the high praise which has been bestowed
on it by all the sweet singers of Rustaveli's land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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