The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song — John Shaqi
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and songWardrop, John Oliver
History
The Kingdom of Georgia: Notes of travel in a land of women, wine, and song
Wardrop, John Oliver
Georgia (Republic) -- Bibliography; Georgia (Republic) -- Description and travel
Climbing to the summit of the hill, we enjoyed a splendid view of
the Alazana valley from the opposite side to that whence we had been
accustomed to see it; behind us rose the white peaks of the Caucasus,
looking very near in the clear morning air. A little way off the blue
smoke rising from among the trees showed us where our friends, the
highwaymen, were cooking their breakfast. To the eastward, almost at
the foot of the hill, lay the Russian military colony of Mikhailovka,
to which we descended.
Mikhailovka is fairly prosperous compared with other Russian
colonies in Transcaucasia, but to a European it does not seem an
Arcadia; it is one wide, straggling street of poor, dirty-looking
farmhouses. The colonists have to struggle with fever and ague,
not to speak of Lesghians, and altogether do not seem to enjoy their
life very much. Mikhailovka is the point at which the military road
from Signakh turns to the eastward, and about five miles farther
on arrives at Lagodekh, the staff head-quarters of an army corps,
into which we rode about an hour before noon.
Lagodekh is a place of some size, with wide, clean streets and large
grassy squares, planted with fine trees, the houses are neat and
comfortable-looking. Swift mountain streams run through it and supply
delicious water. The public buildings comprise barracks, hospital,
stores, a fine church of red sandstone, a modest club-house, bazar,
&c. We made our way to the quarters of an officer of the 39th, whose
hospitality we enjoyed until evening. In spite of the terrible heat,
our host showed us everything worth seeing. The park is the great
attraction, it is beautifully kept, and contains a fine long avenue
of tall poplars; in the middle of it is a pavilion with the garrison
ball-room, and near the entrance may be seen a small cemetery where
there is a real, old-fashioned ghost, which, under the semblance of
a white lady carrying a cross, affrights the local Tommy Atkins every
year in the month of June. I commend this sprite to the attention of
the Psychical Research Society, and I am quite willing to proceed to
Lagodekh and spend a month there in investigating the matter--at the
Society's expense.
The troops suffer a good deal in the summer months, and there are
many casualties from apoplexy, dysentery, and other complaints.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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