The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attireAnonymous
Philosophy
The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attire
Anonymous
Clothing and dress -- Patterns; Millinery -- Patterns; Needlework -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.; Sewing -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
4thly. That you should, as often as possible, begin your run at the
top, so that if there is any left over, it may go off at the bottom,
where it is of the least consequence. You can do this in every case but
where you have to join a cut edge and a selvage, and must begin at the
bottom, in order to have the selvage uppermost.
5thly. That you must remember that gored skirts hang lower at the
bottom of the gores than either before or behind, and that the first
turning in of the hem should be therefore laid in rather deeper at the
sides of the skirt.
6thly. That you should make your fastenings so good as that the dress
may wear out before they give way. This is particularly important with
regard to the pocket-holes and the openings behind, which should be
well secured by stitching, or a bar at the turn. It is very trying to
a lady to find her skirt slit down behind the first time she slips her
gown over her head, or her pocket-hole give way before she has put her
hand into it half a dozen times.
With these remarks, and a proper share of attention, the following
instructions will remove much of the difficulty in which the novice in
the art of dressmaking finds herself involved.
First the materials for the intended dress must be procured, and it
is advisable, whenever practicable, to get them all at the same time.
The necessary requisites are the material, the lining for the body and
skirt, wadding, covering, hooks and eyes, silk, thread, and what is
called stiffening muslin. You will require all those for a silk dress,
and most of them for those of other fabrics.
Having thus procured the required articles, proceed to cut out the
dress, first measuring off the number of breadths of the proper length
for the skirt (which is, of course, to be regulated by the height of
the wearer, and by the manner in which it is intended to be made), and
try them carefully on one side. If tucks are to be introduced into
the skirt, a proper allowance must be made for these, as also for the
turnings both at top and bottom. You next cut out the sleeves, as being
the largest parts of the garment except the skirt. In cutting out the
sleeves, you must first prepare a paper pattern of the required shape;
then double the lining, and cut it exactly the shape of the paper,
leaving about an inch all round for the turnings in. You will thus cut
the sleeve linings both together, and will avoid some labor and all
danger of making one larger than the other. Double the silk or other
material so as that both the wrong sides may face each other, and cut
the sleeves by the lining just prepared. To secure exactness, it is
best to tack it to the material. Be careful to lay the straight side of
the pattern to the selvage of the silk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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