The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attireAnonymous
Philosophy
The ladies' hand-book of millinery and dressmaking : $b With plain instructions for making the most useful articles of dress and attire
Anonymous
Clothing and dress -- Patterns; Millinery -- Patterns; Needlework -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.; Sewing -- Handbooks, manuals, etc.
The sleeves being thus prepared, proceed to take the proper measures
for the front and back of the body, by fitting a paper pattern to the
shape of the person for whom the dress is intended. The paper should
be thin, and you commence by folding down the corner the length of
the front, and pinning it to the middle of the stay-bone. Then spread
the paper as smoothly as possible along the bosom to the shoulder,
and fold it in a plait, so as to fit the shape exactly, and bring the
paper under the arm, making it retain its position by a pin; from this
point you cut it off downward under the arm, and along the waist; the
paper is then to be rounded for the arm-hole and the shoulder, and you
must recollect to leave it large enough to admit of the turnings. In
the same manner you proceed to form the back, pinning the paper down
straightly; and leaving sufficient for the hem, you fit it to the
shoulder and under the arm, so as to meet the front. You will thus
have an exact pattern of half of the body, and this is all that is
necessary, as, of course, you cut both sides, both of the front and
back, at the same time. The linings are to be cut by the pattern, and
the silk by the linings. You must take care to cut the front crosswise
of the silk, and in two separate pieces, which are afterward joined in
the middle. If the plait made in the pattern be very large, it must be
cut out on the silk, or the body will not fit well to the shape; if
small, it may be left: but we think that, in all cases, to cut it out
is the preferable method.
It is not generally advisable to cut out the half of the back all in
one piece, as it fits better with pieces joined at the sides; these are
called side-bodies; and this method should always be adopted, unless
the lady has a very flat back: in that case, it is best to cut the half
all in one piece. The backs must be cut straight; and it is best to
tack the material to the lining before cutting it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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