The Lake of GenevaMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Lake of Geneva
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Geneva, Lake (Switzerland and France)
From Sixt we ascend through forest by the side of the rushing
stream, through a landscape that is enlivened with as many splashing
waterfalls as greeted Ulysses and his companions with their music when
they came to the afternoon land of the Lotos Eaters. A little below
the Eagle's Nest, the pleasant summer home of the late Mr. Justice
Wills, the forest virtually ceases, and the road ends altogether;
and thenceforward on to Chamonix we have only a mountain track, or
mule-path, which mounts at first abruptly by a series of sudden
zig-zags, but afterwards for an interval keeps a leveller upland route
across wild and desolate pastures that lie round the big mountain tarn
known as the Lac d'Anterne, beyond which rise in superlative grandeur,
for more than two thousand feet, the giddy, sheer rock precipices of
the strangely named Tête-à-l'Ane. All this is very splendid, and every
inch of going pleasant; but I have brought you all this distance for a
single point of view that bursts suddenly into vision, without warning
or preparation. Suddenly, as perhaps you are getting a little tired, or
finding the landscape a trifle monotonous, literally almost a single
step brings you to a little break in the ridge of the opposite hill,
whence the whole majestic chain of Mont Blanc--not only the monarch
himself, but his whole range of attendant satellites and regally
shattered aiguilles, from the Aiguille du Tour, on the left, to the
Aiguille du Gouter, on the right--leaps splendidly into view--such a
vision of splintered crags, and snows of dazzling, unsullied purity,
and dark hollows of sullen glacier, and plinth of green pasture and
forest, as certainly you will not find anywhere else in the Alps, nor,
for ought I know, though the scale may be bigger, among Andes or
Himalayas. Nor does all this magnificence here rise, as it rises when
seen from closer and more familiar quarters, from the Flegère or the
Brévent, directly from the foreground of the rather shabby Vale of
Chamonix, with its electric railways to Argentière and the Montanvert,
and with its unspeakable vulgarity of an aerial flight, or whatever
they call their piece of villainy, up the pinnacles of the Aiguille
du Midi, and with Chamonix itself in the centre, a mass of obtrusive
roofs; but here it springs heavenward from above, and beyond, the
long, dark ridge of the sombre Brévent itself, which serves in its
comparative humility at once for measure and foil; whilst immediately
below us are the dark, unpeopled depths (save for a small, solitary
inn) of the upland valleys of the Diosaz and its tributary streams.
Around is utter solitude, and wherever the eye can penetrate; and in
front this unspeakably splendid chain, revealed in a single second, and
viewed in its total length. A man would perhaps do well, who wishes
to appreciate to perfection this sovereign of Alpine hills, never to
approach it more closely than this crest of the Col d'Anterne.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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