The Lake of GenevaMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Lake of Geneva
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Geneva, Lake (Switzerland and France)
--nor the associations with Rousseau and Byron, could save this "little
nook of mountain ground" from being sacrificed to the dictates of a
thoughtless and idle fashion. "You have destroyed the Clarens shore of
the Lake of Geneva."
One is glad indeed that the famous Castle of Chillon, with which
we must now conclude our perambulation of the north shore of the
lake, and the little walled town of Villeneuve, which now, however,
notwithstanding its name, seems ancient and venerable indeed in
comparison with this gay modernity that pulsates at its doors, should
lie just beyond the limit of this land of ruined Edens, and should thus
restore us to the right mood in which to take farewell of the Lake of
Geneva. Chillon is far from the finest castle, considered merely as a
building, in Switzerland (an honour due to Vufflens), nor, in fact,
is it even the most beautifully situated (an honour surely due to
the crag-perched residence of the old Bishop-Princes of the Valais
on the towering rock of Sion). Its chief curiosity of site is the
immense depth of water that lies immediately below its walls, which is
sometimes said (I cannot vouch for so astonishing a statement) to have
been "fathomed to the depth of 800 feet, French measure"--
"Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls:
A thousand feet in depth below
Its massy waters meet and flow;
Thus much the fathom-line was sent
From Chillon's snow-white battlement;"
but it is due neither to its value as a specimen of military
architecture, nor to its charm of situation, nor to this marvel of
subterraneous precipice, that Chillon maintains the extended reputation
that renders it perhaps the most visited and best known of all the many
famous castles of the world. Its cult is rather due to its association
with Byron's "Prisoner of Chillon," which was written, as we have
seen, in the old Ancre Inn at Ouchy in the short course of a couple of
days in 1816. Byron himself has entitled this a "fable," and it has
certainly little or nothing to do with the historical Bonnivard, who
was certainly imprisoned here for six years, between 1530 and 1536, but
was released in the latter year, and subsequently became a Protestant,
and married four wives in succession! Byron, however, in the last six
lines of another poem--the "Sonnet on Chillon"--has paid a stately
tribute to the actual Bonnivard, which will be recalled with interest
in the striking, half-subterranean dungeon in which he was confined for
more than four years of his captivity:
"Chillon! thy prison is a holy place,
And thy sad floor an altar--for 'twas trod,
Until his very steps have left a trace
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod,
By Bonnivard! May none those marks efface!
For they appeal from tyranny to God."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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