The island of St. Mary is a mere sandbank, barely raised above the
level of the river, (in fact a considerable portion of it is below
high-water mark,) and is separated from the mainland by a narrow
mangrove swamp, dignified by the name of Oyster Creek, which is
fordable at low water. The centre of the isle can boast of a little
solidity, as a ridge of rock, covering about twenty square yards,
there crops up through the sand, and is pointed out to strangers by
the inhabitants with much pride, as a proof that their _demesne_ has a
stable foundation. The island has apparently been formed of the sand
thrown up by the meeting of the inflowing tide with the current of the
river. A bar, or sandbank, is now in course of formation to the south
of the island from the same causes, and in a few centuries the British
possessions in the Gambia will receive a considerable accession of
territory in that direction.
The town of Bathurst is small and insignificant: there is a row of
habitable buildings, principally stores, built of brick and stone,
facing the river, and behind this lies the remainder of the town, which
consists of native huts built of palm-leaves, old boards, and matting.
There are no made roads, and every street is ankle-deep in sand. To one
side of an open space in the centre of the town stand the old barracks,
in which the West India troops were formerly quartered, and this, with
Government House, which though small is perhaps the most comfortable
in West Africa, are the only two buildings in Bathurst worth a second
glance.
The natives of the country north of the Gambia are Jolloffs, an
entirely distinct race of negroes, and, as far as my experience goes,
the only really black people to be found in West Africa. The colour of
the ordinary negro is a deep brown, but the skin of the Jolloffs is
of a dead dull black. Their features differ from those of other races
on the coast: the eyes are slightly oblique and almond-shaped, the
nose long and inclined to be aquiline, and the lower part of the face
less prognathous than is usual amongst Africans. There is a tradition
amongst them that they were once white, and it may be a fact that in
the dim past their ancestors were of Arab blood, and that their colour
may be accounted for by a succession of marriages with the aboriginal
women of the country. Many of them are remarkably like Arabs in every
other respect, and both sexes wear the Arab costume. The women dress
their wool, which they suffer to grow long, into innumerable ringlets,
each about a foot in length and of the thickness of a pencil, which
hang down in a mass on their necks; some of them are rather handsome,
and have regular features.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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