There is a colony of Jolloffs in Bathurst, but the majority of the
people of that race that one sees in the town are traders from the
interior, who bring down their ground-nuts to exchange for powder,
muskets, and Kola nuts. In the one street of stores, of which I have
spoken, long lithe Jolloffs may be seen coming out of the shops with
trade muskets, the stocks of which are painted a brilliant red, and
the barrels made of renovated pieces of old gas-pipe. Into these
unquestionably deadly weapons they pour two or three handfuls of
powder, and then fire them off in the road to test them. The test
frequently leaves nothing remaining but a fragment of barrel and stock,
and the practice is one that is rather startling to strangers who may
happen to be passing by. The Kola nuts (_Sterculia acuminata_) are
eaten by the natives habitually, as sailors chew tobacco. They are said
to be particularly useful to travellers, as they prevent all sensations
of hunger, thirst, or weariness. I ate two or three as an experiment,
but I did not find that I was any the less ready for my dinner at
the usual hour. They are imported from the Timmanee country, near
Sierra Leone, principally in the neighbourhood of the Great and Little
Scarcies rivers, to which part, though distant three hundred miles from
the Gambia, large canoes and boats resort solely for the purpose of
obtaining them.
The English-speaking and Christianized negroes in Bathurst, most of
whom are emigrants from Sierra Leone, are a vast improvement upon their
compatriots in that negro paradise. They positively do a little work
occasionally, and some few of them might even be called industrious.
I could not discover the cause of the improvement. Perhaps it is
owing to the good example of the Jolloffs, or to there not being such
a redundancy of missionaries in the Gambia; but I think it is more
probably due to the fact that the island is so small that there is no
spare land on which they can squat and do nothing (even if there were
any soil to produce anything), so that they are obliged to work or
starve. They build cutters of from twenty-five to sixty tons’ burden,
which are used by the French merchants for bringing produce down the
river from their outlying factories, and for carrying cargo between
Bathurst and Goree or Dacar.
In the one street of Bathurst there is a fairly good market-shed for
native vendors of fruit and green-stuff, and I was going to look round
and see what there was to buy when I caught sight of a large slab of
marble let in to the rubble wall of the gateway. It bore the following
legend:--
“This market was erected by Colonel Luke S. O’Connor during his
Governorship, A.D. ----.”
I said to myself, “Oh! indeed,” and passed on.
Thirty yards further down the road I saw a tablet attached to an old
swish wall. I walked up to it and read:--
“This wall was repaired during the Administration of Colonel Luke S.
O’Connor, Governor, A.D. ----.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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