Since my passion for the ballet or for Kscheschinska does not attain the
proportions of a twenty-ruble investment, I find it preferable to devote
the evening to the always interesting and fruitful hotel studies. What
seething life in the numberless corridors, dining-halls, and vestibules
of the fashionable St. Petersburg Hotel! Governors in generals'
gold-braided uniforms, covered with so many orders and medals that it
makes one curious to find out about all the deeds of heroism for which
they were bestowed; chamberlains with refined elegance in their gala
dress, hiding the "beau restes" of the one-sided Adonis; tall, agile,
dark-eyed Circassians with the indispensable cartridge-pouch on the
breast region of their long coats, with the dagger hanging in its
massive gold sheath from the tightly drawn belt; Cossacks with fur caps
a foot high, made of white or black Angora skins, placed on their
bristly heads; a nimble Chinese man, or maid, servant, with long
pigtail, whose sex it is impossible to distinguish; a whole troop of
dark-eyed Khivanese squatting on their prayer-rugs before the apartment
of their khan, passing the nargile from hand to hand, and exchanging
witticisms about the passing Europeans; beardless Tatar waiters
shuffling by in their flat-soled shoes--a mixture of Europe and Asia
such as may hardly be seen at once in any other part of the world. The
west European merchants and other travellers, who throng the hotel, are
scarcely noted among the exotic appearances. In this hotel, as elsewhere
throughout St. Petersburg, the European, the civilian, is seemingly
merely tolerated. The city belongs to the functionaries, soldiers,
officials, and chamberlains, to the Cossacks, Circassians, and, above
all others, to the police. More intimate acquaintance reveals that a
goodly portion of the uniformed persons in St. Petersburg are ordinary
students, technologists, professors, etc., and that these uniformed
persons do not equally represent the state. On the contrary, the fight
of the state, or, to be more precise, of the police, against the free
professions, would not be so bitter if the members of the latter were
not entitled to wear uniforms. As it is, they also may appear to the
common people as representatives of the Czar's authority.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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