We slept through the night. Kind fate had decreed for us snow and cold
in succession to the disagreeable thaw, and we availed ourselves of the
clear weather to become acquainted with the bright side of St.
Petersburg. And, first of all, the snow! It changes the entire
appearance of the city as if by a magic wand. The narrow, open carriages
where two persons can accommodate themselves only with difficulty,
especially when wrapped in fur coats, have disappeared. Their places
have been taken by small, low sleighs without backs. The "izwozchik"
(driver) in his blue, plaited Tatar fur coat and multicolored sash, with
fur-trimmed plush cap on his head, sits almost in the passenger's lap.
Yet there is compensation for the meagre dimensions of the sleigh. The
small, rugged horses speed along like arrows through the straight
streets, hastened on by the caressing words or the exclamations of the
bearded driver. Horse, driver, and sleigh are very essential figures in
the St. Petersburg street scenes. We at home cannot at all realize how
much driving is done in St. Petersburg. The distances are enormous;
streets five or six kilometres long are not unusual. There are almost no
streetcar lines, thanks to the selfishness of the town representatives,
composed of St. Petersburg house-owners, who do not care to see a
reduction in rents in the central portion of the town. The average city
inhabitant readily parts with the thirty, forty, or fifty kopeks
demanded by the "izwozchik," and thus everything is rushed along in an
unending race. The "pravo" (right) or "hei beregis!" (look out!), which
the drivers bawl to one another or to the pedestrians, resounds through
the streets, but they are not very effectual. One must open his eyes
more than his ears if he wishes to escape injury in the streets of St.
Petersburg. The constant racing often results in four or five rows of
speeding conveyances attempting to pass one another. The drivers with
their bearded, apostle faces, which appear lamblike when they
good-naturedly invite you to enter their conveyances, are like wild men
when they let loose. Their Cossack nature then asserts itself. On and
always on, and let the poor pedestrian take care of his bones. And
however much the little horse may pant and the flakes of foam may fly
from its sides, "his excellency," "the count," "his highness" (the
izwozchik is extremely generous with his titles), will surely add a few
kopeks when the driver has been very smart; and so the little horse must
run until the passenger, unaccustomed to such driving, loses his breath.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account