I. On the Way to "The Land of the Long Night."--Homesick.--Tempted to Return.--Girls and Boys Say "No; Go on, Go on, Paul."--Decide to Continue my Journey.--Winter Coming On.--Don Warmer Clothing.--From Stockholm North. 1 II. Snow Land.--A Great Snowstorm.--Fearful Roads.--Snow-ploughs.--Losing the Way.--Intelligence of the Horses.--Upset in the Snow.--Difficulty of Righting Ourselves.--Perspiring at 23 Degrees below Zero.--Houses Buried in the Snow. 9 III. Halt at a Farmhouse.--Made Welcome.--A Strange-looking Interior.--Queer Beds.--Snowed In.--Exit through the Chimney.--Clearing Paths.--I Resume my Journey.--Reach Haparanda. 17 IV. Good Advice from the People of Haparanda.--Warned against Still Colder Weather.--Different Costume Needed.--Dressed as a Laplander.--Lapp Grass for Feet Protection. 29 V. What the Arctic Circle is.--Description of the Phenomenon of the Long Night.--Reasons for its Existence.--The Ecliptic and the Equinoxes.--Length of the Long Night at Different Places. 36 VI. Fine Weather Leaving Haparanda.--Windstorms succeed.--A Finlander's Farm.--Strange Fireplace.--Interior of a Cow-House.--Queer Food for Cattle.--Passing the Arctic Circle. 40 VII. Skees, or the Queer Snowshoes of the North.--How They Are Made.--Learning to Use Them.--Joseff's Instructions.--Hard Work at First.--Going Down Hill.--I Bid Joseff Good-bye. 48 VIII. A Primitive Steam Bath House.--How the Bath was Prepared.--What are the Twigs for?--I Ascertain.--Rolling in the Snow.--Fine Effect of the Bath. 56 IX. How the Laps and Finns Travel.--Strange-looking Sleighs.--Different Varieties.--Lassoing Reindeer.--Description of the Reindeer. 60 X. Harnessing Reindeer.--The First Lessons in Driving.--Constantly Upset at First.--Going Down Hill with Reindeer.--Thrown Out at the Bottom.--Queer Noise Made by Reindeer Hoofs. 66 XI. The Last Days of the Sun.--Beginning of the Long Night.--A Mighty Wall of Ice.--The Long Night's Warning Voice--The Aurora Borealis and its Magnificence. 73 XII. The Snow Getting Deeper.--Lapp Hospitality.--A Lapp Repast.--Coffee and Tobacco Lapp Staples.--Babies in Strange Cradles.--How the Tents are Made.--Going to Sleep with the Mercury at 39 deg. Below. 77