XIII. Toilet with Snow.--A Lapp Breakfast.--Lapp Dogs. Talks with my Lapp Friend about the Reindeer.--Their Habits and Various Forms of Usefulness. 89 XIV. Moving Camp.--Another Great Blizzard.--A Remarkable Sight--Deer Getting their Food by Digging the Snow.--How Reindeer are Butchered. 99 XV. Watching for the Reappearance of the Sun.--The Upper Rim First Visible.--The Whole Orb Seen from a Hill.--Days of Sunshine Ahead. 109 XVI. Wolves the Great Foe of the Lapps.--How the Reindeer are Protected against Them.--Watching for the Treacherous Brutes.--Stories of their Sagacity. 112 XVII. In Search of Wolves.--A Large Pack.--They Hold a Consultation.--Their Fierce Attack on the Reindeer.--Pursuing Them on Skees.--Killing the Chief of the Pack. 122 XVIII. Great Skill of the Lapps with Their Skees.--Leaping over Wide Gullies and Rivers.--Prodigious Length of Their Leaps.--Accuracy of Their Coasting.--I Start Them by Waving the American Flag. 129 XIX. We Encounter More Wolves.--My Guide Kills Two with his Bludgeon.--A Visiting Trip with a Lapp Family.--Extraordinary Speed of Reindeer.--We Strike a Boulder.--Lake Givijaervi.--Eastward Again. 136 XX. The Lapp Hamlet of Kautokeino.--A Bath in a Big Iron Pot.--An Arctic Way of Washing Clothes.--Dress and Ornaments of the Lapps.--Appearance and Height of the Lapps.--Givijaervi.--Karasjok. 142 XXI. Leave Karasjok still Travelling Northward.--The River Tana.--River Lapps.--Filthy Dwellings.--On the Way to Nordkyn.--The Most Northern Land in Europe. 150 XXII. Leave Nordkyn.--Frantic Efforts of the Reindeer to Keep their Footing on the Ice.--The Bear's Night.--Foxes and Ermines.--Weird Cries of Foxes.--Building Snow Houses.--Shooting-boxes.--Killing Foxes.--Traps for Ermines.--A Snow Owl. 155 XXIII. Jakob Talks to Me about Bears.--The Bear's Night.--Watching a Bear Seeking for Winter Quarters.--They Are Very Suspicious.--I Tell a Bear Story in my Turn. 165 XXIV. Preparations for Crossing the Mountains to the Arctic Ocean.--Decide to Take the Trail to the Ulf Fjord.--Houses of Refuge.--A Series of Terrific Windstorms in the Mountains.--Lost.--Gloomy Reflections.--A Happy Reunion. 170