Steamer-day at Gravosa—Ragusa from the Sea—The Bocche di Cattaro—Castelnuovo—Cattaro and Her Mountain Background 199 CHAPTER XV MONTENEGRO The Gibraltar of the Balkan Peninsula—The Settling of Montenegro—Peter I—The Family of Petrovich—Prince Nikola—The Montenegrin Costume—Incidents of War—The Montenegro of To-day 211 CHAPTER XVI THE ROAD TO CETTINJE The Ascent of the Mountains—Njegushi—The Montenegrin Capital—Historical Monuments in Cettinje—The Return to Cattaro 229 CHAPTER XVII SPALATO AND SALONA Westward Along the Coast—First Glimpse of Spalato—The Campanile—Diocletian’s Palace—Salona and Her Ruins 247 CHAPTER XVIII ZARA From Spalato to Zara—Chief Objects of Interest in the Capital of Dalmatia—The Story of St. Simeon—The Five Fountains—Fragments of Roman Occupation 269 CHAPTER XIX THE GULF OF QUARNERO The Home of the Bora—Fiume—Abbazia—The Home of the Torpedo—Descendants of the Uscocs 282 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE THE LATE QUEEN DRAGA OF SERVIA _Frontispiece_ MAP viii “A CROWD OF STARY-EYED, OPEN-MOUTHED, INQUISITIVE NATIVES” 5 THE HOTEL PROPRIETOR, SOPHIA 9 THE FISCHER RAMPARTS, PESTH 13 THE ELIZABETH BRIDGE,—BUDA IN THE BACKGROUND 17 THE NATIVE SERVIAN HEAD-DRESS 25 DRINKING A FRIENDLY GLASS OF _SLIVIVITZ_ 31 A “BOZE” PEDDLER, BELGRADE 35 THE PRISHTINA COSTUME, WORN BY SERVIAN WOMEN ON FEAST DAYS 39 THE LATE KING ALEXANDER OF SERVIA 51 A SIDEWALK CAFÉ, BELGRADE 63 KING PETER KARAGEORGEVITCH OF SERVIA 69 THE BALL-ROOM OF THE NEW PALACE, BELGRADE 73 FRUIT VENDERS, NISCH 95 A STREET SCENE, SOPHIA 103 A BULGARIAN VILLAGE CHURCH 109 THE SAINT CRAL CATHEDRAL, SOPHIA 115 THE RUINED CHURCH OF SAINT SOPHIA, SOPHIA 119 MONUMENT TO THE “TZAR LIBERATOR,” SOPHIA 123 “A HAWKING, BANTERING MULTITUDE ... IN GALA DRESS” 131 BULGARIANS IN GALA ATTIRE 135 A GROUP POSED FOR THE CAMERA AT THE FRIDAY MARKET, SOPHIA 139 THE AUSTRIAN ARMY BARRACKS AT SARAJEVO 147 SOME TURKISH HOMES IN SARAJEVO 153 DOUBLE-DECKED STORES IN THE TURKISH BAZAAR, SARAJEVO 157 “THE REAL DEVOTEES OF THE RACES” 161