A GORGE OF THE NARENTA, NEAR JABLANIČA 167 THE OLD ROMAN BRIDGE, MOSTAR 173 THE HARBOUR OF GRAVOSA 181 RAGUSA,—MOUNT SERGIUS IN THE BACKGROUND 185 THE WALLS OF RAGUSA 189 THE SEA FORTS OF RAGUSA 197 A GENERAL VIEW OF CASTELNUOVO 205 THE FAMOUS “LADDER” ACROSS THE FACE OF MOUNT LOVČEN 209 A GROUP OF MONTENEGRINS 213 A TYPICAL MONTENEGRIN GIRL 219 A STONE MASON OF CETTINJE AND HIS CART 225 A SECTION OF THE ROAD ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS 231 THE PASS AT THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAINS 235 THE MAIN STREET, CETTINJE 241 A TURN OF THE ROAD ACROSS THE MOUNTAINS 245 SPALATO FROM THE CAMPANILE 253 A FOUNTAIN ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF SPALATO 259 THE RUINS OF THE BASILICA, SALONA 263 ROMAN SARCOPHAGI, SALONA 267 THE WATER FRONT, ZARA 273 THE FIVE FOUNTAINS, ZARA 279 VIA ANDRASSY, FIUME 285 The Lands of the Tamed Turk CHAPTER I WHY THE BALKANS? The Rundreise Ticket—Why the Balkans?—When and Where English is Heard—Why Not the Balkans? For a week we had remained in London, trying furiously to make up our minds which part of the Continent would interest us most. In the evenings at dinner we laid bare our ideas collected during the day, and endeavoured to formulate plans, but those countries which one favoured to visit seemed in no wise to appeal to the other. By the end of the week we had about completed our inventory of the tourable parts of Europe without one of us being inoculated with a special desire to revisit any of them. Then some one suggested, “Why not the Balkans?” That seemingly insignificant little interrogation cut short our evening convocations in London as abruptly as one would snuff the wick of a candle, for inside of forty-eight hours we had purchased our “Rundreise” and “Hapag” tickets and were speeding Vienna-ward. To the seasoned traveller the following brief explanation may seem a trifle superfluous but, at the same time, it may be the means of saving a world of bother and inconvenience, no small item of expense and an incalculable loss of temper to the uninitiated—especially in countries where an English-speaking individual is regarded with no little curiosity.