Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
Very near us, a hundred metres from our fort, passes the Great Wall
of China. It is surmounted at this point by a watch tower, where the
Japanese are now established, and there they have planted their white
flag on a bamboo stick in the red sunlight.
Always smiling, especially at the French, the little Japanese soldiers
invite us to come up to see from above the surrounding country.
The Great Wall, seven or eight hundred metres thick at this point,
descends gently amid green grass on the Chinese side, but drops
vertically on the side toward Manchuria, where it is flanked by
enormous square bastions.
We mount, and at our feet we see the wall plunging on one hand into the
Yellow Sea, while on the other it rises to the summits of the mountain
and goes winding on through the fields as far as the eye can see,
giving the impression of a colossal thing which never comes to any end.
Toward the east we have a view, in this clear light, of the deserted
plains of Manchuria.
Toward the west--in China--the wooded country has a deceptive look
of peace and confidence. All the European flags hoisted on the forts
have a festive air amid all the green. It is true that on a plain near
the shore there are evidences of an immense movement of Cossacks, but
they are far away and the noise does not reach us, though there are at
least five thousand men among the tents and among the flags which are
stuck into the ground. Where the other powers send to Ning-Hia only a
few companies, the Russians on the contrary proceed in great masses,
because of their designs on neighboring Manchuria. Shan-Haï-Kouan, the
Tartar village which has closed its gates through fear of pillage,
appears in the distance, gray and mute as though asleep behind its
high crenellated walls. On the sea off toward the horizon, rests the
squadron of the Allies,--a fleet of steel monsters with black smoke,
friends for the moment, silently assembled in the motionless blue.
The weather is calm, exquisite, buoyant. The prodigious rampart of
China blossoms at this season like a garden. Between its sombre bricks,
loosened by time, asters, and quantities of pinks like those at the
seashore in France are pushing their way through.
This legendary wall, which has for centuries stopped all invasion from
the north, will probably nevermore see the yellow flag and the green
dragon of the Celestial emperors. Its time has gone by, passed, is
forever at an end.
III
ON THE WAY TO PEKIN
I
THURSDAY, Oct. 11, 1900.
At noon, on a beautiful calm day that is almost warm and very luminous
on the water, I leave the admiral's ship, the _Redoutable_, to go on a
mission to Pekin.
We are in the gulf of Petchili on the road to Taku, but at such
a distance from the shore that it is not visible, so there is no
indication of China anywhere.
The trip begins with a short ride on a steam launch, which takes us out
to the _Bengali_, the little despatch-boat which will bring me to land
by to-night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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