Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
My hosts were good enough to have a stove hastily set up for me and
lighted, which called up a picture of European discomfort in some
wretched place in the country. How could one fancy oneself in China, in
Pekin itself, so near to mysterious enclosures, to palaces so full of
wonders?
As to the French minister, whom I am anxious to see, to convey to
him the admiral's communications, I learn that he, having no roof to
cover his head, has gone to seek shelter at the Spanish legation; and
furthermore, that he has typhoid fever, which is epidemic on account
of the poisonous condition of the water, so that for the present no
one can see him. So my stay in this damp place threatens to be more
prolonged than I anticipated. Through the window-panes covered with
moisture I gloomily look out onto a court filled with broken furniture,
where the twilight is falling and the snow.
Who could have foreseen that to-morrow, by an unexpected turn of
fortune, I should be sleeping on a great gilded, imperial bed in a
strange fairyland in the heart of the Forbidden City?
VIII
FRIDAY, October 19.
I awake benumbed with the damp cold of my poor lodging; water drips
down the walls and the stove smokes.
I go off to perform a commission entrusted to me by the admiral for
the commander-in-chief of our land troops, General Voyron, who lives
in a small house near by. In the division of the mysterious Yellow
City, made by the heads of the allied troops, one of the palaces of the
Empress fell to our general. He installed himself there for the winter,
not far from the palace which was to be occupied by one of our allies,
Field-Marshal von Waldersee, and there he has graciously offered me
hospitality. He himself leaves for Tien-Tsin to-day, so for the week
or two which his trip will occupy I shall be there alone with his
aide-de-camp, one of my old comrades, who has charge of adapting this
residence from fairyland to the needs of military service.
What a change it will be from my plastered walls and charcoal stove!
My flight to the Yellow City will not take place till to-morrow
morning, for my friend, the aide-de-camp, expresses his kindly wish to
arrive before me at our palace, where some confusion reigns, and to
prepare the place for me.
So, having no further duties to-day, I accept the offer of one of the
members of the French legation to go with him to see the Temple of
Heaven. It has stopped snowing, the cold north wind has chased away the
clouds, and the sun is shining resplendently in the pale blue sky.
According to the map of Pekin, this Temple of Heaven is five or six
kilometres from here, and is the largest of all the temples. It
seems that it is situated in the midst of a park of venerable trees
surrounded by double walls. Up to the time of the war the spot was
unapproachable; the emperors came once a year and shut themselves up
there for a solemn sacrifice, preceded by purifications and preparatory
rites.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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