The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
The four men did not waste time next morning on the North Col, for
they were tormented by thirst and hunger. It took them six hours to
reach Camp 3, for they had to make a staircase beneath the new snow
which the porters could use, in order to fetch down their baggage,
since they did not intend to spend the night at Camp 3 without their
sleeping-bags. At midday they were back in comparative comfort, with
certain solid conclusions as the result of the venture. One was as
to the difficulties of new snow and the precariousness of the
weather; another was as to the unexpected capacity of the porters.
But the most important was as to the need of oxygen. They had
reached a point very little below 27,000 feet, and that left 2,000
feet to be surmounted before the summit was reached. For success, a
higher camp was needed than Camp 5, and the men who started from it
must, if possible, have an extra stimulus to counteract the malign
effects of altitude. If Everest chose to clothe itself with air
containing less oxygen than a man needed, the defect must be
supplied. If a climber used extra clothes to counteract the cold, he
must use some extra device to supplement the atmosphere.
IV
We come now to the second attempt of 1922, in which oxygen was used.
Certain eminent scientists at home had held that Everest could never
be conquered without its aid, and the expedition had brought a very
full equipment--oxygen stored in light steel cylinders, and a
somewhat complex apparatus for its use. There had been oxygen drill
parades among the party, and perhaps it might have been well had they
used it straight away for one main attempt, instead of making the
first effort without it. Unfortunately the apparatus needed
overhauling, and it was not till 22nd May, when Mr. Mallory and his
party were coming down from the mountain, that four sets were ready
for use. As to the legitimacy of such a device in mountaineering,
Mr. Finch's arguments are final.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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