The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
The romance which Mr. Candler saw in the Potala, Mr. Landon found
most conspicuously in the church of the Jo-kang. The palace was
magnificent from the outside, but within it was only a warren of
small rooms and broken stairways. The great cathedral, on the other
hand, was hidden away among trees and streets, so that its golden
roof could only be seen from a distance, but inside it was a shrine
of all that was mysterious and splendid. The contrast was
allegorical of the difference between the temporal ruler of
Lamaism--gaudy, tyrannical, and hollow--and the sway of the Buddhist
Church, which by hidden ways and unseen agencies dominated the
imagination of Asia. The Chinese Amban, having a natural desire to
pay back the people who had so grossly neglected him, invited certain
members of the Mission to enter this Holy of Holies. The visitors
were the first white men to approach the inner sanctuary of the
Buddhist faith. They were stoned on leaving the building, but the
sight was one worth risking much to see. In the central shrine sat
the great golden Buddha, roped with jewels, crowned with turquoise
and pearl, surrounded by dim rough-hewn shapes which loomed out
fitfully in the glare of the butter-lamps, while the maroon-clad
monks droned their eternal chant before the silver altar. And the
statue was as strange as its environment.
"For this is no ordinary presentation of the Master. The features
are smooth and almost childish; beautiful they are not, but there is
no need of beauty here. There is no trace of that inscrutable smile
which, from Mukden to Ceylon, is inseparable from our conception of
the features of the Great Teacher. Here there is nothing of the
saddened smile of the Melancholia, who has known too much and has
renounced it all as vanity. Here, instead, is the quiet happiness
and the quick capacity for pleasure of the boy who had never yet
known either pain, or disease, or death. It is Gautama as a pure and
eager prince, without any thought for the morrow or care for to-day."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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