The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
Mr. Landon has other pictures of almost equal charm. He takes us to
the famous Ling-kor, the sacred road which encircled the town, worn
with the feet of generations of men seeking salvation. We see the
unclean abode of the Ragyabas, that strange unholy caste of beggar
scavengers; we walk in the gardens of the Lu-kang, by the
willow-fringed lake and the glades of velvet turf; and, not least, we
visit the temple of the Chief Wizard, where every form of human
torment is delicately portrayed in fresco and carving. But if we
wish to realize the savagery at the heart of this proud theocracy, we
must go with Mr. Candler to the neighbouring Depung monastery on the
quest for supplies, and see the tribe of inquisitors buzzing out like
angry wasps, and submitting only when the guns were trained on them.
For these weeks of waiting in Lhasa were an anxious time for all
concerned. Our own position was precarious in the extreme, and, had
the Lhasans once realized it, impossible. Winter was approaching,
the Government was urging the Mission to get its Treaty and come
home, and yet day after day had to pass without result, and the
Commissioner could only wait, and oppose to the obstinacy of the
monks a stronger and quieter determination. Sir Francis Younghusband
was indeed almost the only man in the Empire fitted for the task.
"He sat through every durbar," says Mr. Candler, "a monument of
patience and inflexibility, impassive as one of their own Buddhas.
Priests and councillors found that appeals to his mercy were
hopeless. He, too, had orders from his King to go to Lhasa; if he
faltered, his life also was at stake; decapitation would await him on
his return. That was the impression he purposely gave them. It
curtailed palaver. How in the name of all their Buddhas were they to
stop such a man?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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