The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration — John Shaqi
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of ExplorationBuchan, John
History
The Last Secrets: The Final Mysteries of Exploration
Buchan, John
Discoveries in geography; Explorers
On 21st June they crossed a pass of over 13,000 feet into the valley
of the river known as the Po-Tsangpo, an affluent of the Brahmaputra.
It was a stream 80 yards wide, and of such rapidity that its current
was one whirl of foam. The natives were in great fear of the
Chinese, and it was necessary to go boldly to Showa, the capital,
where a letter could be received from the Abor Survey party vouching
for their respectability. The Chinese had burned the place, killed
the chief, and decapitated the council, and the inhabitants looked
askance at the travellers because of the Chinese writing on a tablet
of Indian ink which they carried. After three days, however, a
letter arrived from the Abor party, which persuaded them that Captain
Bailey and Captain Morshead were at any rate servants of the English
King.
The explorers now moved north-eastwards down the Po-Tsangpo, finding
great difficulty in crossing the tributaries, where the bridges had
mostly been destroyed. It was a beautiful land, bright with primula,
iris, and blue poppy, and the roads were lined with raspberries.
They were now leaving the Po-me country and travelling among a more
civilized type of Tibetan, who wore hats like clergymen, made out of
yak's hair. After crossing a pass of over 15,000 feet they returned
to the main stream of the Tsangpo. This country was under the charge
of Tzongpen of Tsela, who came to meet the travellers--an urbane
gentleman whose son was at Rugby and a promising cricketer.
They were now on the Tsangpo above the mysterious gorges. They had
left behind them the hot valleys of the lower stream and found a dry
Tibetan dale, where the chief crops were barley and buckwheat. The
river was broad and slow, at one point stretching into a lake 600
yards wide, and its altitude was 9,680 feet. The problem was now to
follow it down from that point to the point of their last
observation, where the altitude was only 2,610 feet. Somewhere in
the intervening tract of gorge it must make the enormous descent of
over 7,000 feet.
The first stage was the twenty-two miles down to Gyala, which had
been visited in 1878. The stream was in flood owing to melting
snows, and the water-side track was difficult. Four days' march
below Gyala they reached Pemakochung, the limit of Kinthup's
exploration. So far they had passed various small rapids, but
nothing in the nature of a fall. A mile below Pemakochung they came
on Kinthup's cascade. It proved to be only some 30 feet high and not
vertical.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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