The Leatherworker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: Being an Account of the Nature of Leather, & of the Crafts Commonly Engaged in the Making & Using of It.Ford, Thomas K.
History
The Leatherworker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: Being an Account of the Nature of Leather, & of the Crafts Commonly Engaged in the Making & Using of It.
Ford, Thomas K.
Leatherwork -- Virginia -- Williamsburg
When Pearson died in 1777, his estate included “four Negro men Tanners
and Curriers, two shoemakers” and three other slaves, indicating that
the late master tanner operated a considerable business. The tanyard
continued in the possession of Pearson’s widow and descendants for
nearly sixty years, being operated at least part of the time by William
Plume, tanner and currier from Norfolk.
It is hardly a secret that the processes of tanning and currying infuse
the surrounding air with a symphony of odors—a circumstance that helps
to explain why a tannery was generally located on the far edge of a
town, and usually on the downwind side. As if hides and skins were
themselves not fragrant enough, eighteenth-century tanners, curriers,
and leather dressers made use at various stages or for special purposes
of such delectable commodities as fish oil, sour beer, urine, barley
mash, and the fermented dung of chickens, pigeons, and dogs.
Sketchily described, the procedures employed by the tanner and currier
(separate crafts in England but often combined under one roof or in the
same man in colonial America) were as follows:
1) Preparing the pelt included the removal of accumulated dirt and
stable trash, removal of the hair and epidermis from the outer or grain
side (except for furs), removal of shreds of flesh and adipose tissue
from the inner side, and plumping up of the fibers of the remaining
middle layer, or corium, to be more receptive to the tanning solution.
The tanner accomplished all this by repeated washings, followed by a
sequence of soaking in solutions of lime, and then by draining, and
scraping. The scraping process, known as unhairing and fleshing, he did
laboriously with a blunted knife, the pelt being stretched over a wooden
horse or beam. He might repeat the liming, draining, and scraping if
necessary, and he followed it up with more rinsing and scraping to
remove most or all of the lime.
2) Tanning proper involved soaking the hide or skin in a series of
tanning vats, each containing a stronger solution—called “ooze”—than the
one before. Careful and complete tanning, a slow process, required from
several weeks for a light skin to eighteen months for a heavy hide.
During this period the hides or skins were many times “hauled and set,”
that is, removed from the vat and piled beside it to drain for a time.
The same sort of processing took place in tawing, except that alum
rather than oak bark supplied the tanning agent.
3) Finishing included trimming, currying, and coloring (if called for)
in whatever combination of processes was needed for the intended use of
the finished leather. Readers with uneasy stomachs should be satisfied
if some of these processes are here left undescribed, only named, to
wit: trampling, scouring, blooming, slicking, stricking, shaving,
stuffing, dubbing, boarding, graining, bruising, staking, waxing,
blacking, sizing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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