The Leatherworker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: Being an Account of the Nature of Leather, & of the Crafts Commonly Engaged in the Making & Using of It.Ford, Thomas K.
History
The Leatherworker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: Being an Account of the Nature of Leather, & of the Crafts Commonly Engaged in the Making & Using of It.
Ford, Thomas K.
Leatherwork -- Virginia -- Williamsburg
Boots (sometimes listed as “ffrench falls”) as well as shoes for men,
women, and children were imported from England—and from New England—as
well as being made in the colony. Among the London makers, Didsbury &
Co. enjoyed first preference for orders sent from Virginia and paid for
with shipments of tobacco. The wives and daughters of planters, in
particular, preferred to wait six months or a year for the arrival of
fashionable shoes from London rather than buy what the local shoemaker
offered, or they sometimes patronized the milliner for “stuff” shoes.
A good shoemaker could average two pairs of shoes, welted, turned, or
stitched in a twelve-hour working day. In any shoe the sole would be
heaviest cow or ox hide, cut from that part of the hide over the
animal’s hind quarters called the “bend.” Uppers would usually be of
calfskin, sometimes of goat, sheep, or dogskin. Women’s shoes with
leather soles very often had uppers of fabric, such as calimanco,
ticking, silk, damask, satin, or poplin.
Black was the color of men’s shoes, although an occasional example might
be in color, especially the heels. For women’s leather shoes, red,
white, blue, green, or purple prevailed. Children’s footwear was made in
bright colors or black. Lacing, apparently the usual fastening method in
the seventeenth century, gradually gave way in the eighteenth to straps
and buckles, the latter tending to become larger and fancier as time
passed. Buckles of brass and steel served for everyday wear, silver and
paste for dress-up occasions. The Geddy family in Williamsburg made
copper alloy buckles as good as could be had from London, while
silversmith John Coke made them in gold. Ties, however, did not lose out
completely.
Pointed toes held first place in fashion for both men’s and women’s
shoes. Again, this does not mean that round- or square-toed shoes were
not made; on the contrary, they were not uncommon on the feet of those
persons who put other considerations before style. But style was a
potent governor for the well-to-do among colonial Virginians, who {...}
Both men’s and women’s shoes, as well as children’s and slaves’ shoes—,
were made on straight lasts. That is, shape and construction were the
same for left and right shoe, and either one of a pair could be worn on
either foot. This situation resulted not from some primitive crudeness
or ineptitude on the part of colonial cordwainers, who could and if
called upon did make paired left-and-right shoes. Rather, it embodied an
aesthetic preference. Symmetrical shoes pleased the eighteenth-century
eye more in themselves and left a more pleasing pattern of tracks than
did unsymmetrical shoes.
If that seems a curious judgment, just remember that your own preference
for paired shoes would strike your style-conscious colonial forebears as
quite unthinkable.
[Illustration: _Riding horse, fully equipped, with reins, saddle,
and a “horse pistol” in its holster just in front of the saddle._
Diderot.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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