The Leatherworker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: Being an Account of the Nature of Leather, & of the Crafts Commonly Engaged in the Making & Using of It.Ford, Thomas K.
History
The Leatherworker in Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg: Being an Account of the Nature of Leather, & of the Crafts Commonly Engaged in the Making & Using of It.
Ford, Thomas K.
Leatherwork -- Virginia -- Williamsburg
Visitors to restored Williamsburg can identify another operating craft
shop by the overhead sign of the “Boot & Shoemaker.” The little building
not far from the foot of Palace Green represents the shop of George
Wilson & Co. “next Door to Mr. Greenhow’s Store,” and stands on
foundations of an eighteenth-century structure. In the absence of
documentary or archaeological evidence as to the appearance of George
Wilson’s shop or its contents, the architecture and furnishings of the
shop follow traditional precedents.
[Illustration: _Cordonier_ _An illustration, again from Diderot’s
encyclopedia, showing some European styles and techniques of
shoemaking. Colonial American styles and methods were similar.
Unfortunately no one on this side of the ocean wrote or illustrated
any descriptive books on the subject, so we must rely heavily on the
French source._]
A working shop that demonstrates shoemaking and the general skills of
leatherworking, the shop’s size and contents are typical and authentic.
One sees in it numerous boots and shoes in various stages of
construction, a full set of lasts, other articles of leather, including
belts, mugs, and black jacks, and an assortment of knives, awls, and
other leatherworking tools of the eighteenth century.
In contrast to this small shop in Williamsburg, the “Shoe Factory”
operated by John Wilson, George’s predecessor in Norfolk, included these
items presumably found there by the appraisers of his estate:
304 pairs of “Negroe Shoes” valued at 5 shillings per pair
103 pairs of men’s shoes, some at 6/ and some at 9/ per pair
6 pairs of boots at 20/ per pair, and four pairs of boot legs
15 pairs of women’s shoes at 5/ and 6/; one of silk at 10/
79 pairs of children’s shoes at 3/ and 3/9
235 lasts; 60 or more hides and skins; 6½ dozen heels; 3 dozen
blacking balls; 17 shoemaker’s seats; “4 Gross Tax”; and “a sise
stick.”
The “tax” in this case is easy to evade by changing it to tacks. The
“sise stick” was almost certainly the same sort of device that is used
in shoe stores today to measure the size of the customer’s foot. But
what really strikes one about this inventory is the magnitude of the
operation it reveals. With an indicated seventeen workers, it was
doubtless one of the few mass-production factories colonial Virginia
could boast.
The ratio of boots to shoes for men—6 to 103 pairs—seems out of line for
Virginia where, as one observer wrote, “even the most indigent person
has his saddle-horse, which he rides to every place, and on every
occasion.” Virginians being “excessively fond of horses,” one would
expect them to have worn boots most of the time, and this expectation
would seem to be corroborated by Robert Gilbert’s repeated
advertisements for the services of a journeyman bootmaker. The evidence
indicates that in the latter part of the century boots appear to have
sold better than shoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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