Tournefort, though a scholar, was by no means a classical enthusiast,
and therefore his descriptions of celebrated places may generally be
depended upon. If any thing, he was too much disposed, from a not
uncommon species of affectation, to disparage the places on which the
ancients have thrown the noblest rays of glory. From this disposition he
caricatures the Cretan Ida, which he denominates “a great ugly ass’s
back,” where you find neither landscape, nor fountain, nor stream, nor
agreeable solitude; but, instead of all these, prodigious piles of
barren rocks, surrounded by all the circumstances of desolation. From
the summit he enjoyed, indeed, an extensive prospect, but he thought it
much too dearly purchased by the fatigue of climbing so difficult a
mountain; and, in order to put himself in good-humour with the scene,
set down in the lee of a rock and made a good bowl of sherbet.
After visiting Retimo, Candia, and the other principal cities of the
island, they made an excursion to the famous labyrinth which is hewn in
the bowels of a hill near the ancient Gortyna. This singular excavation
is entered by a rustic cavern, and conducts you by numerous windings
entirely through the mountain. Tournefort regards it as a natural cavern
enlarged by human industry. Wherever he met with any Greeks during his
journeys in this island, their manners were distinguished by the most
remarkable simplicity, men, women, and children crowding round the
strangers, admiring their dresses, or demanding medicines.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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