Having satisfied his scientific curiosity respecting Candia, he
proceeded to visit the various islands of the Archipelago, which he
examined with attention. On almost every rock on which he landed some
additions were made to his botanical or antiquarian treasures, and with
this mass of materials continually accumulating, he pushed on to
Constantinople. Being desirous of comprehending the barbarous but
complex machine of the Ottoman polity, he made a considerable stay in
this city, from whence, when he conceived his object to have been
accomplished, he continued his travels towards the east, and following
the footsteps of the Argonauts, whom the ancients, he tells us, regarded
as their most famous travellers, proceeded along the southern shores of
the Black Sea towards Colchos. Our traveller performed this part of his
route in the suite of the Pasha of Erzeroom. The whole party embarked in
feluccas, the pasha with his harem in one vessel, and the remainder of
his people, together with Tournefort and his attendants, distributed in
seven others. During the voyage they frequently landed on the coast, for
the purpose of passing the night more agreeably than could have been
done on board. Tents were pitched, and those of the ladies surrounded by
ditches, and guarded by black eunuchs, whose ugly visages and fearfully
rolling eyes struck a panic into the soul of our traveller, who seems to
have regarded them as so many devils commissioned to keep watch over the
houries of paradise.
Indeed, Tournefort, if we may take him upon his word, was exceedingly
well calculated by nature for travelling securely in the suite of a
pasha accompanied by his harem; for when he was cautioned by the great
man’s lieutenant against approaching the female quarters too nearly, or
even ascending any eminence in the vicinity, from whence their tents
might be viewed, he remarked, with apparent sincerity, that he was too
much in love with plants to think of the ladies! This was a fortunate
circumstance. Plants are everywhere to be procured, for even in the East
it has never been thought necessary to place a guard of black eunuchs
over hellebore or nightshade; but had the smile of female lips, or the
sunshine of female eyes, been necessary to his happiness, he must have
languished in hopelessness, at least while in the train of a pasha.
Notwithstanding the nature of the government and the state of manners in
the country through which he passed, he encountered but few
difficulties, and no real dangers. He settled the geographical position
of cities, he admired the landscapes, he described the plants; but being
fully persuaded that the better part of valour is discretion, he engaged
in no adventures, and therefore the current of his life ran on as
smoothly on the shores of the Black Sea as it could have done on the
banks of the Seine or Rhone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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