It was at Gharendel that he supposed the Israelites to have met with
those “bitter waters,” or “waters of Marah,” mentioned in Exodus; and he
observes that the little rill which is still found in that place has a
brackish taste, unless diluted by the dews and rains. Proceeding thirty
leagues southward from this place, without meeting with any thing
remarkable, they arrived at Elim, upon the northern skirts of the desert
of Sin, where, as the Scriptures relate, the Israelites found twelve
wells of water and seventy palm-trees. Of the wells our traveller could
discern nine only remaining, the other three having been filled up by
the sand; but the seventy palm-trees had multiplied to upwards of two
thousand, and under their shade was the “Hummum, or Bath of Moses,”
which the inhabitants of the neighbouring port of Tor held in great
veneration. Here they enjoyed the first view of Mount Sinai, rearing its
rugged summit above the plain, and overlooking the whole surrounding
country. The traject of the desert of Sin occupied nine hours, and they
were nearly twelve hours more in threading the winding and difficult
ways which divide that desert from the plain of Sinai. At length,
however, they reached the convent of St. Catherine, supposed to be built
over the place where Moses saw the angel of the Lord in the burning
bush, when he was guarding the flocks of Jethro. This convent, or rather
fortress, is nearly three hundred feet square, and upwards of forty in
height, constructed partly with stone, partly with earth and mortar. The
more immediate place of the Shekinah is marked by a little chapel, which
the monks, who are of the order of St. Basil, regard with so remarkable
a degree of veneration, that, in imitation of Moses, they take their
shoes from off their feet whenever they enter it. This, with many other
chapels dedicated to various saints, is included within what is called
the “Church of the Transfiguration,” a spacious and beautiful structure,
covered with lead, and supported by a double row of marble columns.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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