The door of this convent is opened only when the archbishop, who
commonly resides at Cairo, comes to be installed; and therefore our
travellers, like all other pilgrims, were drawn up by a windlass to a
window, nearly thirty feet from the ground, where they were admitted by
some of the lay brothers. From a notion which prevails but too generally
among mankind, that holiness consists in thrusting aside, as it were,
the gifts which the hand of Providence holds out to us, the poor men who
immure themselves in this wild prison condemn their bodies to
extraordinary privations and hardships, not only abstaining, like
Brahmins, from animal food, but likewise from the less sinful
indulgences of butter, milk, and eggs. With an inconsistency, however,
from which even the Pythagoreans of Hindostan are not altogether free,
shellfish, crabs, and lobsters are not included within the pale of their
superstitious humanity; and of these they accordingly partake as often
as they can obtain a supply from their sister convent at Tor, or from
Menah el Dizahab. Their ordinary food consists of bread, or biscuit,
olives, dates, figs, parched pulse, salads, oil, vinegar, to which, on
stated days, half a pint of date brandy is added.
From this convent to the top of Mount Sinai, a perpendicular height,
according to our traveller, of nearly seven thousand two hundred feet,
there was formerly a stone staircase, built by the Empress Helena; but
in many places the effects of her pious munificence have disappeared,
and the ascent of the mountain is now considered by the monks
sufficiently difficult to be imposed as a severe penance upon their
pilgrims and votaries. Dr. Shaw did not, when he had reached it, find
the summit very spacious, nor does he seem to have greatly enjoyed the
extensive view which it commands over scenes rendered profoundly
interesting and memorable by the wanderings of the children of Israel.
On descending into the desert of Rephidim, on the western side of the
mountain, he was shown the rock of Meribah, from which Moses caused
water to gush forth by the stroke of his wand. It was about six yards
square, lying tottering, as it were, and loose near the middle of the
valley, and seemed to have been formerly a part or cliff of Mount Sinai,
which hangs in a variety of precipices all over this plain. The waters
had now ceased to flow, but the channel they had once occupied remained,
incrustated, to borrow the doctor’s expression, like the inside of a
tea-kettle that has been long used, and covered with several mossy
productions, whose life and verdure were preserved by the dew.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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