the west, and caused the founding of altars to the yoni in Cyprus long
before the birth of history.
Our traveller continued his researches among the rude tribes who inhabit
the fastnesses of Lebanon, visited the cedars, Baalbec (where he found
the body of a murdered man in the temple), Damascus, Horus, and Aleppo;
and having made an excursion across the Euphrates to Orfah, returned by
way of Antioch and Scanderoon to Tripoli, where he embarked on the 24th
of October for Cyprus.
On approaching Limesol from the sea, its environs, consisting entirely
of vineyards, and gardens planted with mulberry-trees, and interspersed
with villas, present a charming landscape to the eye. The wines for
which the island is celebrated are all made here. In Cyprus what
principally interests the traveller are the footsteps of antiquity; he
seeks for little else. The temples and worship of Venus, hallowed, if
not spiritualized, by poetry, have diffused a glow over the soil which
neither time nor barbarism, potent as is their influence, has been able
to dissipate. The heart thrills and the pulse quickens at the very names
of Paphos and Amathus. A thousand pens have celebrated their beauty:
Love has waved his wings over them. Pococke seems, however,
notwithstanding his passion for beholding celebrated places, to have
visited these scenes with as much coolness as he would a turnip-field.
Non equidem invideo: miror magis.
He remarks, indeed, that it was from this city that Venus acquired the
epithet of _Amathusia_; that a temple was here erected in honour of her
and Adonis; and that the ruins of the city walls are fifteen feet thick.
But is this all? Wherefore are we not presented with a picture of the
landscape around the spot? Is it soft, is it beautiful, like the goddess
who was worshipped there?
Tacitus informs us that the temple which stood here was erected by
Amathus, son of King Aërias; and Servius and Macrobius observe that the
statue of the goddess was double-natured and bearded, though clothed in
female garments. The sexes changed dresses on entering the fane; and
during the mysteries instituted by Cinyras, salt, money, and the symbol
of the productive power of nature were presented to the initiated.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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