Towards this column of smoke, which, as he was informed, arose from
a Foulah village, he now directed his course; but on arriving at the
place, was inhospitably driven from every door, except that of an old
woman, who kindly received him into her dwelling, and furnished him
with food for himself and with provender for his horse. Even here,
however, the influence of Ali pursued him like his evil genius. The
people who had collected round him while he was eating, began, as
he clearly discovered from their expressions, to form the design of
carrying him back once more to Benowm or Bubaker. He therefore hastened
his departure, and having wandered among the woods all day, passed the
night under a tree. In this way he continued his journey, sometimes
meeting with hospitality, but more frequently avoiding the dwellings of
man, and subsisting upon the wild produce of the woods, and the water
of a few pools, to which the croaking of the frogs directed him.
At length he entered the kingdom of Bambarra, where he found the people
more hospitable in proportion as they were more opulent than their
neighbours. Cultivation was here carried on in a spirited manner and
on an extensive scale, and “hunger,” as the natives expressed it,
“was never known.” The country itself was beautiful, intersected on
all sides by rivulets, which, after a rain-storm, were swelled into
rapid streams. Park’s horse was now so attenuated by fatigue that it
appeared like a mere skeleton, which the traveller, fearing to mount,
drove before him, as if to scare away the crows. The Bambarrans, whose
hospitable disposition was accompanied by but little delicacy, were
infinitely amused at this droll spectacle. Taking him for a Moor, they
supposed from his appearance that he must be one of those religious
mendicants who, having performed the pilgrimage to the holy cities,
thenceforward consider themselves fully entitled to subsist upon the
labours of their industrious coreligionists. “‘He has been at Mecca,’
said one; ‘you may see that by his clothes.’ Another asked if my horse
was sick; a third wished to purchase it, &c. So that I believe the very
slaves were ashamed to be seen in my company.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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