The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
“After passing a sleepless night at Carlisle, I was hurried away next
morning without a morsel of breakfast, and grew so very sick and ill
in a little while that I had almost fainted twice. When we stopt at
Penrith and took up an old gentleman, I then got a large dram of gin,
which did me much service; and we proceeded through snow and ice far
and far, and farther than I can tell, till I fell asleep and got a much
better night’s rest than at that accursed Carlisle. During the night
(but Heaven knows where) we picked up two men going to London; and, lo!
about daylight another qualm seized me. And when we got to Stilton, it
blew such a hideous storm, with hail, snow, and wind, that for an hour
and twenty minutes the six horses would not move forward, but attempted
always to retreat to the stables. Such kicking, such rearing of beasts,
such cursing and swearing of men (who had a stronger smack of the big
brute in them than even their cattle), I never met with before; and
after every cudgel in the house—yea, even my landlady’s private stick
wherewith she corrects her spouse—had been bent or broken over their
backs, they got on so slowly that we reached London only at eight in
the morning. Here was no peace for the wicked. The ‘Bull and Mouth,’
which is the filthiest place you ever saw, gave me such an aversion to
remaining where I was, that I took a place in the heavy coach which
went on at one that day, and lay down on a bed till the time for
departure. Here my head grew very bad indeed, so that I slept not a
wink.”
[Sidenote: _AN AFFECTED TRAVELLER_]
“Stinking, noisy stye,” he elsewhere calls the “Bull and Mouth,” but
we must recollect that Sharpe was very affected, a bundle of fine
feelings, and a _poseur_: one, in short, born a hundred years before
his time, and by no means one of those robust Englishmen to whom noise
and stable-smells were but the ordinary and commonplace incidents of
coach-journeys and coaching hostelries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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