The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
It would be wearisome to follow Lord Grimthorpe in detail, in his new
way with an old Abbey. With extraordinary passion and virulent contempt
for public opinion, he swept away genuine Norman work, and in many
places gave a brand-new appearance where had before been the bloom of
antiquity. Controversy followed upon controversy, during the progress
of these works, and Lord Grimthorpe went grimly on his way, replying to
arguments with the personal abuse of which he was a better master than
he was of architecture. His critics were “the usual howlers”; Street
to him was “the immortal author of the worst great Gothic building in
the world,” by which, of course, he meant the Law Courts; the foremost
architects and antiquaries talked “ignorant nonsense,” and were
persons who would “call everything destruction on which they have not
got a percentage.” Here, indeed, be “words that sting, and thoughts
that burn.” They are vehement, and they hurt, which was the object of
them. Like Alan Breck, he was a “bonnie fighter,” even though, as an
architect, he did not begin to exist. One of his worst atrocities was
the hateful wash-tub done in stone, which serves for pulpit in the nave.
His work is, indeed, only too evident all over the building, and he
himself is represented in sculptured stone in a spandrel over one of
the western porches; and is shown in the likeness of a recording angel,
with a pen and a scroll upon which he is probably entering the sins of
architects, or writing some new Evangel on matters architectural. But
the sculptor, although the portrait is excellent, has made a mistake
in representing him apparently at a loss for a word. Whether pleading
a case in court, or abusing fellow-controversialists, his eloquence
suffered from no such impediment.
[Sidenote: _ST. ALBAN’s SHRINE_]
But enough of Lord Grimthorpe and his doings. Let us see the “holy of
holies” of this Cathedral: the Shrine of St. Alban, in its beautiful
chapel, directly east of the great altar-screen. After the Shrine
was destroyed, in the troubles attendant upon the Reformation, none
expected it to be ever seen again. It disappeared utterly, and only the
worn pavement, where the pilgrims had knelt, showed where it had stood.
All around were signs that this had been no lightly regarded Shrine;
and to this day the mid-fifteenth-century Watching Loft remains, in
which the Feretrarius, or Relic Keeper, and his monastic brethren kept
guard night and day.
It was in 1866 that, during some alterations to the Lady Chapel, many
pieces of carved Purbeck marble were found, built up with bricks and
rubble into some sixteenth-century work. It was readily guessed that
they were portions of the vanished Shrine, and in 1872, when Sir
Gilbert Scott was at work in the south choir-aisle, an immense quantity
of carved fragments were discovered. A further quest led to the
recovery of nearly the whole of the marble Shrine; and it now stands,
pieced together, in its ancient place.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account