The Manufacture of Chocolate and other Cacao PreparationsZipperer, Paul
Science
The Manufacture of Chocolate and other Cacao Preparations
Zipperer, Paul
Cacao; Chocolate; Cocoa
~Venezuela~, one of the earliest cultivating lands, is the
home of the Criollo bean, and of the most splendid specimens of
bean in general, sorts which play a prominent part in the Chocolate
Manufacture. The Venezuelan bean is rather long and round, and
its kernel of a beautiful light brown, with a mild sweet flavour.
Unfortunately the plantations have recently been interspersed with
Forastero or Trinidad-Criollo trees—called in Venezuela “Trinitarios
because brought over from Trinidad, a species which requires less
attention and bears more fruit, but which just on that account supplies
commoner and mediocre beans, slowly fermenting, and often developing a
violet hue. The preparation is here of the simplest; the beans e. g.
are dried on clay-covered floors, and in rainy weather earthy fragments
often adhere to them. Yet such “Patios” or “Then-dales”, (clay floors)
are only in use on the small “haciendas” (plantations). The colouring
of the Venezuelan bean with an ocre-like earth constitutes an especial
peculiarity. It is adopted in particular for the medium and finer
sorts. The earth is mostly sent from the neighbourhood of Choroni to
the two large shipping ports Puerto Cabello and La Guayra, where the
colouring or “Earthification” of the cacaos to be exported ensues. The
earth, varying in colour from a dirty yellow to brick-red, is mixed to
a thin paste with sea-water, and afterwards placed in the sun on large
sieves, or spread over cement floors. Where the colouring takes place
immediately on the plantation, the yellowish brown earth everywhere
available is utilised; and where sea-water cannot be obtained, as on
the Rio Tuy, for example, there the beans are coloured with a mixture
prepared from crushed and almost liquid cacao fruits and this same
yellowish brown earth, as the use of fresh water is thought to afford
but inferior protection against mould growths. Such juice-coloured
cacaos, and occasionally also the Ocumare sorts, are often covered
with a rather thick earthy crust. Professional opinion concerning the
utility of this colouring varies greatly. In France, the principal
country consuming Venezuelan cacao, it is still maintained that the
thin earthy crust not only enables the bean to resist the penetration
of mildew, but also admits of a kind of after-fermentation, together
with developement and preservation of the most valuable constituents
of the cacao bean. Colouring is then the rule for the finer Caracas
sorts, and all varieties shipped through Puerto Cabello; it is also in
use at Carupano, for export to Spain.
The Venezuelan cacaos are divided as follows, and with one exception
take their names from the chief shipping ports, to which they are
brought in small sailing vessels tapping the villages dotted along the
coast.
1. ~Maracaibo~ cacao, the noble, large, and always uncoloured
bean found on the shore of Sea of Maracaibo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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