The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins — John Shaqi
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
For him the tour of the renowned fortifications will be the great event of
his visit. Having furnished himself with the necessary authorization from
the proper military authorities (for he will be reminded at every turn of
the strict martial discipline under which he lives), he will proceed to
ascend the Rock, making his first halt at a building which in all
probability he will often before this have gazed upon and wondered at from
below. This is the Moorish Castle, the first object to catch the eye of
the newcomer as he steps ashore at the Mole, and looks up at the houses
that clamber up the western slope of the Rock. Their ascending tiers are
dominated by this battlemented pile, and it is from the level on which it
stands that one enters the famous galleries of Gibraltar. The castle is
one of the oldest Moorish buildings in Spain, the Arabic legend over the
south gate recording it to have been built in 725 by Abu-Abul-Hajez. Its
principal tower, the Torre del Homenaje, is riddled with shot marks, the
scars left behind it by the ever-memorable siege. The galleries, which are
tunneled in tiers along the north front of the Rock, are from two to three
miles in extent. At one extremity they widen out into the spacious crypt
known as the Hall of St. George, in which Nelson was feasted. No arches
support these galleries; they are simply hewn from the solid rock, and
pierced every dozen yards or so by port-holes, through each of which the
black muzzle of a gun looks forth upon the Spanish mainland. They front
the north, these grim watchdogs, and seeing that the plain lies hundreds
of feet beneath them, and with that altitude of sheer rock face between
them and it, they may perhaps be admitted to represent what a witty
Frenchman has called _le luxe et la coquetterie d' imprenable_, or as we
might put it, a "refinement on the impregnable." Artillery in position
implies the possibility of regular siege operations, followed perhaps by
an assault from the quarter which the guns command; but though the Spanish
threw up elaborate works on the neutral ground in the second year of the
great siege, neither then nor at any other time has an assault on the Rock
from its northern side been contemplated. Yet it has once been "surprised"
from its eastern side, which looks almost equally inaccessible; and
farther on in his tour of exploration, the visitor will come upon traces
of that unprecedented and unimitated exploit. After having duly inspected
the galleries, he will ascend to the Signal Tower, known in Spanish days
as El Hacho, or the Torch, the spot at which beacon fires were wont on
occasion to be kindled. It is not quite the highest point of the Rock, but
the view from it is one of the most imposing in the world. To the north
lie the mountains of Ronda, and to the far east the Sierra of the Snows
that looks down on Granada, gleams pale and spectral on the horizon. Far
beneath you lie town and bay, the batteries with their tiny ordnance, and
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account