The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
the harbor with its plaything ships; while farther onward, in the same
line of vision, the African "Pillar of Hercules," Ceuta, looks down upon
the sunlit waters of the Strait.
A little farther on is the true highest point of the Rock, 1,430 feet; and
yet a little farther, after a descent of a few feet, we come upon the
tower known as O'Hara's Folly, from which also the view is magnificent,
and which marks the southernmost point of the ridge. It was built by an
officer of that name as a watch tower, from which to observe the movements
of the Spanish fleet at Cadiz, which, even across the cape as the crow
flies, is distant some fifty or sixty miles. The extent, however, of the
outlook which it actually commanded has probably never been tested,
certainly not with modern optical appliances, as it was struck by
lightning soon after its completion. Retracing his steps to the northern
end of the height, the visitor historically interested in Gibraltar will
do well to survey the scene from here once more before descending to
inspect the fortifications of the coast line. Far beneath him, looking
landward, lies the flat sandy part of the isthmus, cut just where its neck
begins to widen by the British lines. Beyond these, again, extends the
zone some half mile in breadth of the neutral ground; while yet farther
inland, the eye lights upon a broken and irregular line of earthworks,
marking the limit, politically speaking, of Spanish soil. These are the
most notable, perhaps the only surviving, relic of the great siege. In the
third year of that desperate leaguer--it was in 1781--the Spaniards
having tried in vain, since June, 1779, to starve out the garrison,
resorted to the idea of bombarding the town into surrender, and threw up
across the neutral ground the great earthworks, of which only these ruins
remain. They had reason, indeed, to resort to extraordinary efforts. Twice
within these twenty-four months had they reduced the town to the most
dreadful straits of hunger, and twice had it been relieved by English
fleets. In January, 1780, when Rodney appeared in the Straits with his
priceless freight of food, the inhabitants were feeding on thistles and
wild onions; the hind quarter of an Algerian sheep was selling for seven
pounds ten, and an English milch cow for fifty guineas. In the spring of
1781, when Admiral Darby relieved them for the second time, the price of
"bad ship's biscuits full of vermin"--says Captain John Drinkwater of the
72nd, an actor in the scenes which he has recorded--was a shilling a
pound; "old dried peas, a shilling and fourpence; salt, half dirt, the
sweepings of ships' bottoms, and storehouses, eightpence; and English
farthing candles, sixpence apiece." These terrible privations having
failed to break the indomitable spirit of the besieged, bombardment had,
before the construction of these lines, been resorted to. Enormous
batteries, mounting 170 guns and 80 mortars, had been planted along the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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