The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
There are, however, no such grim glaciers, no such vast snow-fields as in
Switzerland, for here in the south the sun has more power, and even at
these heights only the peaks and pinnacles wear white crests during the
summer heats. This more genial temperature encourages a richer vegetation,
and makes the ascents less perilous and toilsome. A member of the Alpine
Club would laugh to scorn the conquest of Muley Hacen, or of the Picacho
de la Veleta, the two crowning peaks of the range. The enterprise is
within the compass of the most moderate effort. The ascent of the
last-named and lowest, although the most picturesque, is the easiest made,
because the road from Granada is most direct. In both cases the greatest
part of the climbing is performed on horseback; but this must be done a
day in advance, and thus a night has to be passed near the summit under
the stars. The temperature is low, and the travellers can only defend
themselves against the cold by the wraps they have brought and the fuel
they can find (mere knotted roots) around their windy shelter. The ascent
to where the snow still lingers, in very dirty and disreputable patches,
is usually commenced about two in the morning, so that the top may be
reached before dawn. If the sky is clear, sunrise from the Picacho is a
scene that can never be forgotten, fairly competing with, if not
outrivaling, the most famous views of the kind. The Mediterranean lies
below like a lake, bounded to the north and west by the Spanish coast, to
the south by the African, the faintest outlines of which may often be seen
in the far, dim distance. Eastward the horizon is made glorious by the
bright pageants of the rising sun, whose majestic approach is heralded by
rainbow-hued clouds. All around are the strangely jagged and contorted
peaks, rolling down in diminishing grandeur to the lower peaks that seem
to rise from the sea.
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