The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Almeria, while awaiting the return of maritime prosperity, can look with
some complacency upon a memorable if not altogether glorious past. Its
very names, Portus Magnus under the Romans, and Al Meriah, the
"Conspicuous," under the Moors, attest its importance. All the
agricultural produce of the prolific Vega, the silks that were woven on
Moorish looms and highly prized through the East, were brought to Almeria
for transmission abroad. The security and convenience of this famous port
gave it an evil reputation in after years, when it became an independent
kingdom under Ibn Maymum. Almeria was the terror of the Mediterranean; its
pirate galleys roved to and fro, making descents upon the French and
Italian coasts, and carrying back their booty, slaves, and prizes to their
impregnable home. Spaniards and Genoese presently combined against the
common enemy, and Almeria was one of the earliest Christian conquests
regained from the Moors. Later still the Algerian Moors took fresh
revenge, and their corsairs so constantly threatened Almeria that Charles
V. repaired its ancient fortifications, the old Moorish castle now called
the Alcazaba, the center or keep, and hung a great tocsin bell upon its
cathedral tower to give notice of the pirates' approach. This cathedral is
the most imposing object in the decayed and impoverished town. Pigs and
poultry roam at large in the streets, amidst dirt and refuse; but in the
strong sunlight, white and blinding as in Africa, the mean houses glisten
brightly, and the abundant color seen on awnings and lattice, upon the
women's skirts and kerchiefs, in the ultramarine sea, is brought out in
the most vivid and beautiful relief.
The scenery on the coast from Malaga eastward is fine, in some parts and
under certain aspects magnificent. Beyond Almeria is the famous Cape de
Gatt, as it is known to our mariners, the Cabo de Gata of local parlance,
the Agate Cape, to give it its precise meaning. This remarkable
promontory, composed of rocks encrusted with gems, is worthy a place in
the "Arabian Nights." There are miles and miles of agates and crystal
spar, and in one particular spot amethysts are found. Wild winds gather
and constantly bluster about this richly constituted but often
storm-tossed landmark. Old sailor saws have perpetuated its character in
the form of a proverb, "At the Cape de Gatt take care of your hat." Other
portions of the coast nearer Malaga are still more forbidding and
dangerous: under the Sierra Tejada, for example, where the rocky barriers
which guard the land rise tier above tier as straight as a wall, in which
there are no openings, no havens of safety for passing craft in an inshore
gale. Behind all, a dim outline joining hands as it were with the clouds,
towers the great snowy range of southern Spain, the Sierra Nevada,
rejoicing in an elevation as high as the Swiss Alps, and in some respects
far more beautiful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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