The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Such was the eulogium bestowed upon Barcelona by the great Cervantes
several hundred years ago, an eulogium warranted by a stranger's
experience in our own day. The matchless site of the second city of Spain,
its luxuriant surroundings, awaken enthusiasm as of old, whilst even the
briefest possible sojourn suffices to make us feel at home. A winning
urbanity, a cosmopolitan amiableness, characterize the townsfolk, Spanish
hauteur is here replaced by French cordiality. Softness of manner and
graces of speech lend additional charm to a race conspicuous for personal
beauty. The Barcelonese are described by a contemporary as laborious and
energetic, ambitious of social advance, tenacious of personal dignity,
highly imaginative, at the same time eminently practical, steadfast in
friendship, vehement in hate. The stir and magnificence of the city
attest the progressive character of the inhabitants.
Few European capitals can boast of finer public monuments, few indeed
possess such a promenade as its famous Rambla. The Rambla may be regarded
as an epitome, not only of the entire city, but of all Spain, and here the
curious traveller should take up his quarters. A dozen brilliant or moving
spectacles meet the eye in a day, whilst the normal aspect is one of
unimaginable picturesqueness and variety. The dark-eyed flower-girls with
their rich floral displays; the country folks still adhering to the
costume of Catalonia--the men sandaled and white-hosed, for headgear,
slouch caps of crimson, scarlet, or peach-colored felt, the women with
gorgeous silk kerchiefs pinned under the chin--the Asturian nursemaids in
poppy-red skirts barred with black, and dainty gold and lace caps; the
ladies fanning themselves as they go in November, with black lace
mantillas over their pretty heads; the Guardia Civile in big,
awe-inspiring cocked hats and long black cloaks reaching to the ankle; the
trim soldiery in black and red tunics, knickerbockers and buskins, their
officers ablaze with gold braid and lace; the spick-and-span city police,
each neat as a dandy in a melodrama, not a hair out of place, collars and
cuffs of spotless white, ironed to perfection, well-fitting costumes,
swords at their sides; the priests and nuns; the seafaring folk of many
nationalities; the shepherds of uncouth appearance from the neighboring
mountains--all these at first make us feel as if we were taking part in a
masquerade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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