The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins — John Shaqi
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Now way is made for the funeral train of some rich citizen, the lofty car
of sumptuous display of black and gold drapery, wreaths of fresh roses,
violet, and heliotrope, large as carriage-wheels, fastened to the sides,
the coffin, encased in black and violet velvet, studded with gold nails;
following slowly, a long procession of carriages bearing priests,
choristers, and mourners. And now the sounds of martial music summon the
newcomer a second time to his window. It is a soldier who is borne to his
rest. Six comrades accompany the bier, carrying long inverted tapers;
behind march commanding officers and men, the band playing strains all too
spirited it seems for such an occasion. There is always something going on
in this splendid avenue animated from early morning till past midnight,
market-place, parade ground, promenade in one.
The daily flower-market of itself would almost repay the journey from
London. When northern skies are gloomiest, and fogs are daily fare, the
Rambla is at its best. The yellowing leaves of the plane-trees look golden
under the dazzling blue sky, and brilliant as in a picture are the
flower-sellers and their wares. These distractingly pretty girls, with
their dark locks pulled over the brow, their lovely eyes, rich olive
complexions, and gleaming white teeth, have nothing of the mendicant about
them. As they offer their flowers--perhaps fastening roses to a
half-finished garland with one hand, whilst with the other a pot of
heliotrope is reached down--the passer-by is engagingly invited to
purchase. The Spanish language, even the dialect of Catalonia, is music to
begin with, and the flower-maidens make it more musical still by their
gentle, caressing ways. Some wear little mantillas of black, blonde, or
cashmere; others, silk kerchiefs of brightest hue--orange, crimson, deep
purple, or fanciful patterns of many colors. Barcelona is a flower-garden
all the year round, and in mid-winter we stroll between piled-up masses
of rose, carnation, and violet, to say nothing of dahlias and
chrysanthemums.
It is especially on All Saints' and All Souls' Days that the flower-market
of the Rambla is seen to advantage; enormous sums are spent upon wreaths
and garlands for the cemetery, the poorest then contriving to pay his
floral tribute to departed kith and kin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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