The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
We have taken it, as we propose also to take Tangier, a little out of its
turn; for the voyaging visitor to Gibraltar is not very likely to take
either of these two places on his way. It is more probable that he will
visit them, the one by land and the other by sea, from the Rock itself.
But Tangier in particular it is impossible to pass without a strong desire
to make its acquaintance straightway; so many are the attractions which
draw the traveller to this some-time appanage of the British Crown, this
African _pied à terre_, which but for the insensate feuds and factions of
the Restoration period might be England's to-day. There are few more
enchanting sights than that of the Bay of Tangier as it appears at
sunrise to the traveller whose steamer has dropped down the Straits in
the afternoon and evening hours of the previous day and cast anchor after
nightfall at the nearest point off shore to which a vessel of any draught
can approach. Nowhere in the world does a nook of such sweet tranquillity
receive, and for a season, quiet, the hurrying waters of so restless a
sea. Half a mile or so out towards the center of the Strait, a steamer
from Gibraltar has to plough its way through the surface currents which
speed continually from the Atlantic towards the Pillars of Hercules and
the Mediterranean beyond. Here, under the reddening daybreak, all is calm.
The blue waters of the bay, now softly flushing at the approach of
sunrise, break lazily in mimic waves and "tender curving lines of creamy
spray" upon the shining beach. To the right lies the city, spectral in the
dawn, save where the delicate pale ivory of some of its higher houses is
warming into faintest rose; while over all, over sea and shore and city,
is the immersing crystal atmosphere of Africa, in which every rock, every
ripple, every housetop, stands out as sharp and clear as the filigree work
of winter on a frosted pane.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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