Although the Bolivian capital is overwhelmingly Indian in point of population, in appearance it is decidedly modern. Its streets are paved with cobblestones, but as a rule are clean and kept in good condition. The pavements may be rough, but it must be borne in mind that there are very few level thoroughfares; most of the streets are very hilly, and would be almost impossible to navigate were it not for the cobblestones, which permit men and beasts to maintain a foothold. Municipal laws will not permit Indians to make use of the thoroughfares for their llamas during business hours; they are brought into the city early in the morning, remaining in some patio or courtyard awaiting the evening hours, when their owners drive them home. At sunset one may see long trains of these quaint animals driven through the streets on their way back to the farms. The llama lends picturesqueness to one of the most unusual cities on the face of the globe. [Illustration: LA PAZ, VIEWED FROM THE RIM--MT. ILLIMANI IN THE DISTANCE] [Illustration: THE EVENINGS ARE COLD IN LA PAZ] Little or no coal is burned, as it costs $60 per ton, and only the very wealthy could afford to use it. There is no wood, so few of the houses are heated. Most of the English and American residents use oil burners or electric heaters in their homes; but even the principal hotel is so cold that men usually go to dinner in their overcoats and the women enveloped in furs. Most visitors usually retire immediately after dining, as the night air is so cold that it can be endured only by those acclimated. It is no uncommon thing for a guest at the hotel to pile upon his bed all the available covering that he can obtain, including the carpet on the floor of his room. One might imagine that Cholo women are unusually corpulent; but this is apparent only because of the fact that they don from twelve to twenty skirts. At times, contests are held between Indian belles as to which has the more gorgeous petticoats, and also the greater number. A winner is said to have displayed as many as twenty-four, disclosing a collection of brilliantly colored petticoats unequaled elsewhere for variety. [Illustration: A LEADING CITIZEN] _Religion in Bolivia_ Both Bolivians and Indians are, as a rule, Catholics. On Corpus Christi day, which is religiously celebrated, there is a curious procession in which thousands of people take part, and a strange combination of Cholos, Aymaras and native Bolivians wend their way through the various thoroughfares. In this parade, the Cholo women discard their straw hats and wear their shawls instead. Most of them belong to church societies, and these organizations are indicated by ribbons worn around the neck, the color denoting the society to which the wearer belongs. [Illustration: THE FAITHFUL, HARDWORKING LLAMAS]