It may perhaps seem strange that the soil should have been watered by
such an incident as Mr. Lazarus Fox's reply, in the earliest rich dusk,
to my inquiry as to whither, while I occupied his rooms, I had best
betake myself most regularly for my dinner: "Well, there is the Bath
Hotel, sir, a very short walk away, where I should think you would be
very comfortable indeed. Mr. So-and-So dines at his club, sir--but there
is also the Albany in Piccadilly, to which I believe many gentlemen go."
I think I measured on the spot "all that it took" to make my friend most
advisedly--for it was clearly what he did--see me seated in lone state,
for my evening meal, at the heavy mahogany of the stodgy little hotel
that in those days and for long after occupied the north-west corner of
Arlington Street and to which, in common with many compatriots, I
repeatedly resorted during the years immediately following. We
_suffered_, however, on those occasions, the unmitigated coffee-room of
Mr. Fox's prescription--it was part of a strange inevitability, a
concomitant of necessary shelter and we hadn't at least gone forth to
invoke its austere charm. I tried it, in that singular way, at the hour
I speak of--and I well remember forecasting the interest of a social and
moral order in which it could be supposed of me that, having tried it
once, I should sublimely try it again. My success in doing so would
indeed have been sublime, but a finer shade of the quality still
attached somehow to my landlord's confidence in it; and this was one of
the threads that, as I have called them, I was to tuck away for future
picking-up again and unrolling. I fell back on the Albany, which long
ago passed away and which I seem to have brushed with a touch of
reminiscence in some anticipation of the present indulgence that is
itself quite ancient history. It was a small eating-house of the very
old English tradition, as I then supposed at least, just opposite the
much greater establishment of the same name, which latter it had
borrowed, and I remember wondering whether the tenants of the classic
chambers, the beadle-guarded cluster of which was impressive even to the
deprecated approach, found their conception of the "restaurant"--we
still pronounced it in the French manner--met by the small compartments,
narrow as horse-stalls, formed by the high straight backs of hard wooden
benches and accommodating respectively two pairs of feeders, who were
thus so closely face to face as fairly to threaten with knife and fork
each others' more forward features.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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