The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
The impressiveness of the twin towers of the west end of the great
church is due in part to the extreme simplicity of the Norman work--for
the buildings were completed just before the Norman Conquest--and also
to their great height of 328 feet. On entering it is hard to believe
that until 1790 the abbey and its great church were in a perfect state
of preservation, for the roofs have gone except in the aisles, where the
stones of the vault have been in some places so disturbed by roots and
frosts that collapses are imminent. There are traces of orange-coloured
painting on the arches, and the stone is of a warm cream, which looks
singularly beautiful when afternoon shadows are falling from arches and
pillars. There are only the foundations of the semicircular apse, with
its nine chapels, and the gaps in the east end of the church are
beautified by the presence of tall larches that droop their graceful
branches over the broken moss-grown walls. The fourteenth-century chapel
on the south side, dedicated to St. Pierre, is also in a state of ruin.
St. Philibert founded Jumièges in 654, about the same time as St.
Wandrille was begun, and it also suffered terribly at the hands of the
Northmen, who tortured and massacred without mercy, and left the once
prosperous abbey a shattered ruin.
The rebuilding was encouraged by William Longsword, the son of Rollo;
but the builder of the Norman church which stands to-day was Abbot
Robert of Jumièges, who was afterwards appointed Archbishop of
Canterbury by Edward the Confessor, who had been educated at Jumièges
under his care. The buildings, completed and consecrated in 1067,
remained in use until 1793, the date of the Suppression, so that, with
an interval of about a century in its early history, Jumièges existed as
a monastery for 1,139 years, and in that period was ruled by eighty-two
abbots.
It is interesting to know that, although the Benedictines of Jumièges
contributed a very large sum towards the ransom of Richard I. after his
capture on the way home from the Holy Land, the monastery was twice
plundered by English armies, and the first occasion was in Edward
III.’s reign, when the generosity of the monks seems to have been quite
forgotten!
A portion of the buildings belonging to William Longsword’s church is to
be seen in the Chapel of St. Pierre already mentioned.
An interesting legend of the founder of the abbey explains the presence
of a wolf at the feet of the saint on a carved stone boss. St. Philibert
had given to a convent four leagues from Jumièges the laundry work of
his abbey, and the Abbess and her nuns washed the linen which was sent
to them. One day a wolf ate the ass that carried the washing, but the
holy Abbess induced the wicked wolf to carry the baskets, which he did,
we read, until the end of his life.
The greatness and power of the abbey declined very much after the
Reformation, and at the time of the Revolution the religious who were
dispersed were not numerous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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