The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley — John Shaqi
The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
The short distance from Yainville has to be retraced, and then, going to
the right through a belt of forest, one reaches the banks of the Seine
once more, and passes through the little town of Duclair, with its sunny
quay and its ferry-boat. There are beautiful views over the river, and
as the car runs along the level road one may overtake a steamer that is
sliding along with a little pile of water pushed up in front of its bow,
and note the contrast of its stained red funnel with the soft green
landscape beyond. On the left curious little chambers are cut out of the
cliff of chalk, and several form complete cottages. So even and
horizontal are the layers of chalk, with bands of flint at different
heights, that the cliff has often an exceedingly artificial appearance.
Soon afterwards the road cuts across the neck of another peninsula
formed by one of the deep windings of the Seine, and on reaching the
foot of the rising ground a turning to the right leads to the hamlet of
St. Martin Boscherville, whose noble Church of St. Georges rears its
great bulk on the hillside. The hurried tourist might be inclined to
pass this by, thinking that of ecclesiastic architecture he has seen
enough in this neighbourhood; but throughout the whole of France he will
not find another Norman church so perfect as that of St. Georges de
Boscherville. The abbey was founded and built in the eleventh century by
the Grand Chamberlain of William the Conqueror, Raoul de Tancarville, a
fact proclaimed in an inscription above the chief portal; and the great
church, built at the time when England was newly subjected to the
Norman, stands to-day, with the exception of the western turrets,
exactly as the original builders left it.
The transepts are remarkable for their galleries, similar to those in
Winchester Cathedral; and the chapter-house, which is later than the
church, being Transitional in style, should also be seen. The
sixteenth-century tomb of Le Roulx, the last Abbot, is in front of the
altar.
On resuming the journey, the hill just mentioned is negotiated with some
considerable winding, which enables one to get especially fine views
over the wooded country to the west, with the big church in the middle
distance, and the gleaming river showing its snaky windings on either
side.
After passing through a belt of typical French forest, composed of thin
trees without beauty or individuality, one begins the long curving
descent to Rouen, the historic capital of Normandy. The city appeals so
much to the student of history that this first view of the place as a
whole, threaded by its broad river, and dominated by the fretted spire
and beautiful towers of cathedral and churches, is one that stands out
vividly in the memory when other impressions have faded.
DIEPPE TO ROUEN (36 miles--58 kilometres)
This is a direct road, with a few hills, the ascent from the river at
Sanqueville and the winding descent at Malaunay being the only ones
worth mentioning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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